Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=29207&page=2

I think Sydneykid spells out a good guide.

What is the Garrett equivalent of the GT2530? With the good responses with the 2530 we've already seen (~230rwkW) I don't know what else is better suited.

T.

I'll vote for the 2530 for up to 240rwkw, being its absolute max.

Some time ago when Tilbrooks featured the RB20DET 220rwkw R31 (White) I asked Martin at the time where it made full boost(1.1bar) he said around 3800rpm on the street.

This is very near the stock RB20DET turbo which on mine makes 1.1bar around 3500rpm.

I've also had a VG30BB Ceramic Exhaust wheel turbo, that made 1 bar at around 4000-4100rpm, loading it up would see 1bar by around 3600rpm. It did feel laggy and crap though. When power came on it didn't come on strong and didn't feel like it had much more over the stock RB20DET turbo up top. It felt to me that the car due to the extra lag was slower on the street over the stock setup.

im getting very close to getting my 2530 tuned!

you wont need z32 afm with a setup like this unless you run high boost levels.

eg for my setup with std comp ratio i plan to run a comfortable reliable 1.1bar maybe just a tad more, and have an easy 230+rwkw.

Hey Sly, are you sure of this?!?

I have only a stock turbo running 12psi, any higher than this i either get boost cut or air flow meter maxing out... at 230+ rwkW surely the AFM will be showing more than 5V

when you're reaching 230rwKw or more would you need a fuel pressure regulator?

obviously an upgraded fuel pump is needed but a regulator? how much are these neway?

oh and does anyone know a TRUST turbo that's comparable to the GT2530 and the 3040?

I had to replace my standard AFM with a Z32AFM because it was maxing out at about 190kw too.

I have one of the turbos mentioned in this thread on my car now, namely the HKS 2530.

Its a pleasure to drive and I would choose this turbo again. It feels a lot better than my high flowed standard turbo.

  • 5 months later...

hey fellas, when does the factory turbo max out? is it 190 or 210 rwkw?

And when will the 2510 max out? If its the same rwk or just a bit more why change? the 2510 isnt more responsive than the factory unit is it?

Cheers

My apoligies for the hijack

why does everyone ask what turbo is best geez....... what do u want more like it !

and basic mods is not much to go on......

sorry guys had to vent some frustration as this topic comes up all the time...

i wish people would do search's before asking ....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...