Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there people

iv just been searching through the forums looking for knowledge on resisters. :happy:

i purchased sum yellow tip gtr injecters and also got these 7.5% resisters.

now iv sust how to wire them into my loom thanks to ROY :mad:

but now i cant figure out what way the power runs thru?????

$ ------------------------

$ [ WH50 ]

$ A [[[[[[[[ ]]]]]]]]]] B

$ [ 4AR7.5% ]

$ ------------------------

this is what i have above,they are a solid gold colour.

im thinking that the positive runs thru A and conect wire b to injecter.

i can take tem to shop and pay to find out but weres the fun in that.

any help would be good or if sum1 can refer me to a site THANKS

ps this site rules.hits help me diy my whole build :D

also it wont show my drawing properly hop you can make it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282488-rsisters-gtr-injecters/
Share on other sites

Resistors are not directional in regards to current flow. Either way will work.

awesome....so this is my plan.

i have found the common power to the injectors (solid grey)25det series2 loom

i cut the wire and bridge it between 1 side of each resister.

next is to run the 6 wires from the resisters to each injecter???? :down:

now wat do i do with the remaing common power?????

awesome....so this is my plan.

i have found the common power to the injectors (solid grey)25det series2 loom

i cut the wire and bridge it between 1 side of each resister.

next is to run the 6 wires from the resisters to each injecter????

now wat do i do with the remaing common power?????

Yes you would then run to each injector, that's if you intend on running all new wiring to them. There is no remaining common power because you just used it for the resistors...

The wiring will remain but it will no longer have a 12v on it.

When I did it I just cut the 12v above each injector and wired the resistor for each inline. Saves having to run new wiring, but it does mean your butchering your loom, which personally I didn't have a problem with at the time cos it was a shitter r31.

Either way.

Edited by James_03
Yes you would then run to each injector, that's if you intend on running all new wiring to them. There is no remaining common power because you just used it for the resistors...

The wiring will remain but it will no longer have a 12v on it.

When I did it I just cut the 12v above each injector and wired the resistor for each inline. Saves having to run new wiring, but it does mean your butchering your loom, which personally I didn't have a problem with at the time cos it was a shitter r31.

Either way.

minta dont mind hacking away.its all being rewired to run under a custom plenum.plus the whole cars wiring has gone,only things in the car are there to make it run or do a certain job.cheers heaps for input.

also cant mud the r31z :P thats what my bottom end is from... :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...