Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe this will help all those new to V35s....

V35s came in:

1. 6 speed manual

2. 5 speed tiptronic auto

3. 8 speed CVT tiptronic auto (only made for V35 sedans, Series 1)

If you don't have a CVT, your 5 speed auto will take on the generic auto transmission oil (readily available). If you have the CVT, it needs a not-so-readily-available auto transmission oil....

Correct me if I am wrong (could well be) but I thought the Autos came out as 4 speed automatics, not 5 speed? I don't think mine is 5 speed as the tiptronic/manual mode only goes to 4m..

Also regarding the automatic transmission fluid, it may be OK to use standard ATF fluid (such as Dexron III ATF), but Nissan strongly recommend using their Matic J ATF according to the factory log books, use of any other fluid voided AT warranties in Japan. May just be a marketing ploy for them to sell their own branded fluids but not sure if I want to take a risk on it.

Iv been thinking of getting my gearbox oil changed as my cars clocked over 60k with the 5 speed auto. Was wondering if I should take it to nissan and get them to do the change with their oil. Or ignore the warning sticker on the dip stick and put regular slushbox oil in... me thinks the nissan oil change will be less than a new gearbox if non nissan oil wont cut it.

So are the 5 speed autos as fussy as the 8 speed ones with their drinking habbits?

Edited by 180 wanabe
Correct me if I am wrong (could well be) but I thought the Autos came out as 4 speed automatics, not 5 speed? I don't think mine is 5 speed as the tiptronic/manual mode only goes to 4m..

Also regarding the automatic transmission fluid, it may be OK to use standard ATF fluid (such as Dexron III ATF), but Nissan strongly recommend using their Matic J ATF according to the factory log books, use of any other fluid voided AT warranties in Japan. May just be a marketing ploy for them to sell their own branded fluids but not sure if I want to take a risk on it.

The normal autos only came out as 5 speed, don't know where your other gear went, maybe Al Qaeda is holding it hostage.

Regarding the transmission fluid, forget about the conspiracy theories and devious plots designed to get your money, just get what is recommended. Why would you get any other, just to save a couple of dollars? And if so, what are you going to do with money you save, buy a Kit Kat? Well you'll be walking to the shop to buy that Kit Kat when your transmission fails, haha.

Edited by GoldV35
does anyone know what the 300gt or 250 have in the auto, think they may have been a 4 speed?

Easy Tiger, do you have a 300GT?

Yes, the 250GT and 300GT come out in 4 speed, but doesn't Easy Tiger have a 350GT?

Ok...I had to pull out my Skyline bible to set the record straight.

M-Atx (4 spd Auto) = 250gt, 250GTm

5M-Atx (5spd Auto) = 300GT, 250GT Four, 350GT Coupe & Sedan

CVT-8 = Only 350GT8 sedan

6Spd Manual = 350GT sedan & Coupe

Reference (Hyper Rev Vol 89)

I've got a 300gt and 350gt sedan, both are 5spd Autos. I assume Easy Tiger has the 4Spd Auto in the 250gt.

  • 2 weeks later...

Certainly food for thought. I did notice today I was driving behind a new Murano which had the CVT transmission. With this Murano being brought in by Nissan Australia, does this now mean that the CVT fluid can be purchased locally with less hassle than it seems to have been so far?

no they're not, Murano CVT is designed for AWD, while the one they had on some high end Maxima is designed for FWD...

so that makes it difficult as the only RWD they sell in Aust is 350Z and no 350Z came with CVT...

I read somewhere the fluid is different too,but i could be wrong.

no they're not, Murano CVT is designed for AWD, while the one they had on some high end Maxima is designed for FWD...

so that makes it difficult as the only RWD they sell in Aust is 350Z and no 350Z came with CVT...

I read somewhere the fluid is different too,but i could be wrong.

Guys, look at post #11 in this topic, I have put all the info there.

ive got no idea in my cars transmission. all i was trying to say is isnt the 350z auto trans same as the coupe auto trans im not comparing to the sedan. sorry if im making you guys fustrated if not the same then what is the v35 auto trans called and what is the z?

maybe i put it in the wrong words last time about cvt etc. the only reason why im asking again is that i was going to buy this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/5s...to-t279920.html but after reading this thread some of you guys saying its not the same?

you need to get your facts straight...

V35 Coupe 5sp AT Transmission = 350Z Transmission

350Z early 5sp AT transmission <> 350Z later transmission, thus same case with V35 early <> V35 later

V35 Coupe 5sp AT = V35 Sedan 5sp AT

V35 Coupe 5sp AT <> V35 Sedan 8sp CVT (8sp CVT only offered in 350GT-8 sedans)

maybe i put it in the wrong words last time about cvt etc. the only reason why im asking again is that i was going to buy this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/5s...to-t279920.html but after reading this thread some of you guys saying its not the same?

The ebay link in that thread refer to '05 update 350Z 5sp AT transmission

so it probably will not work if your V35 is an 03-04 model. It will only work with V35 '05 or above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...