Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not having much luck selling my car complete so looking at striping it down and selling some parts if I can get the right $$ and then I will keep the shell and build it up later. I will post up as much info as I can but I am still trying to find all my stuff as the car engine etc was built about 4 years ago and I cant remeber it all.

Whole car is for sale other section, asking 20k, if I can get serious buyers for some stuff here I will start stripping car down. For now will try and keep chassis so I can rebuild it later. Wont to get a Stagea for now as the kids can ride around it that a lot easier.

Engine: R33 RB25,2630cc?, fully built engine by Nisspeed here in Adelaide. Engine was built, engine dyno tuned and fitted in car, we used it for 12 months at about 4 drag meets and very little street use. Engine was stipped down to check it out and have a look, sump baffels were istalled, new rings and since then it has only just been started. Engine includes

RB26 crank balanced, streightened and ground

RB26 rods preped with ARP bolts

ARP cradle studs

Wiesco forged 87mm pistons

sump mods for anti oil surge

Metal head gasket

N1 oil/water pump

New thermostat

RB25 head ported

HD valve springs

HKS? 272 and 264 cams ( one was new the other as good as cant remember the exact specs)

HKS adjustable exh cam gear

ARP head studs

RB26 clear cover - modified

R33 CAS

Rocker covers painted gloss balck with -10 fittings for the breather pipes

engine does not include inlet/exh manifold/PS pump/alternator/

Price: $6000

Turbo Setup

Garret GT3040, 0.82 exh housing

Blitz? Stainless low mount manifold - this thing is a work of art, I got it SH but in exc condition and modified the flanges to suit

Tial 38mm external gate

Will also include 3.5" dump pipe off turbo and screamer pipe off wastegate, as well as oil drain pipe for turbo, braided oil and water feed lines for the kit

Turbo and gate were new and are still in as new condition

$2000

Inlet:

Custom inlet manifold on std runners - old Subzero type one, with 70mm? 5ltr holden throttle body

Includes alloy fuel rail with 75lb ~800cc Holley injectors

Sard pressure reg

Injectors, reg and fuel rail were new, mainfold SH but polished up

$1200

Fuel System

SX fuel pump, good for 700 HP

SX fuel filter

Alloy surge tank with pump and filter mounted on plate

Fuel cell about 30 ltr and lift pump

all conected with stainless braided teflon lines, all parts purchased new

$700

ARE cooler, 600x300x100 Bar and plate, 2.5" inlet, 3" outler,

anyone that knows ARE stuff know it is top quality, with cast end tanks for optimum flow etc, barely a mark on the cooler

$800

ARE 40mm radiator, duel pass cross flow, fits my 32, not sure if 33 etc are the same, includes large themo fan (15" ?)

$600

R33 RB25 gearbox, good contition still shifts smooth as, includes slave cyl

$1000

OS tripple plate clutch, clutch was used but I put new plates through it, includes flywheel, pressure plate, etc

$500

Conversion kit to put R33 box in R32 includes modified 1 piece tail shaft, modified gearbox mount

$100

Also have cooler piping in 2.5" and 3'' stainless, painted silver with tial BOV, and inlet pipe, 4" with big K&N filter can can include some of this if you buy multiple parts.

Motec M800 ECU, with custom wiring loom for the engine, AEM CDI unit, Bosch external coils and leads, Motec has wide band lambda enabled and comes wilth all sensors, looms, plugs etc. This will do almost anything you require of it on any engine. $4500

AIM Pista data logger/dash, this unit replaces all your gauges in the car, full graphic displace and interfaces with ecu via Can bus. Does lap times/track mapping, shift light warnings etc. Comes with lap timer, speed senor, 2 x temp probes and everything else you need see http://www.aimsportsystems.com.au/mxl_system.html

$1700

Blitz Duel SBC spec R boost controller, as new, $500

All parts are still in car so only have these photos.

Prices listed are fairly firm, and for those that have done these mods will know they are probably at least half of what it costs to get done.

Dyno sheet attached of what the car did on the roller at about 1.4 bar boost

Please contact me by email [email protected]

post-429-1250065828_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250065908_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250065971_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250066010_thumb.jpg

post-429-1250066088_thumb.jpg

Have interest in just the exhaust manifold, so if you wont just the turbo may seperate.

Also willing to trade for a stockish RB20/25 set up just so the thing can get moving if this stuff sells

Yeah, thats the starting cost for the unit, then add your looms, sensors, upgrades. The cost inlcludes the CDI unit, coils and all looms are made to suit your Std RB20-25-26. Includes the wideband lamda upgrade so you can monitor your AFR accurately and log them.

May go a little lower but it is not one of the parts I especially wont to sell as I know it will do anything that I require of it in the future and the replacement cost will be a lot more than I will get for it.

are you flexable on the motec?

Trade they are under 3 grand to buy the unit.

Will do Built RB25/26 engine for 5k

Motec M800 looms CDI and all the senrsors coild etc for 4k

Will include tailshaft etc with gearbox if someone needs it for a conversion

Aim Dash, $1500

Will do deal if someone wonts multiply parts and willing to look at swaping stock engine setup, thanks

interested in clutch depending how much meat is left on it mate

Had somone else interested in clutch, if he does not reply in the next day will let you know, clutch had new plates put through it and has done little work since so will be 90% plus on them, thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...