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Thats it.. thanx..obviously a stupid question...

Next.....now from what i hear, with an increase in boost my wastegate is going to open early losing pressure, (is what i thought the whistling may have been). :P

...How will i notice this, should i feel it or notice it by gauge? ..

...Whats the safest way to remedy this problem?

I,ve read of backyard washer tricks....and would love to install an eboost kit which i believe solves all these problems.....but funds lacking. ( hell im still saving to join SAU..) :huh:

Any good advice is appreciated...

  • 3 weeks later...

To increase your boost holding capacity (ie. keep the waste gate clamped shut) and the stability and consistency of the pressure you cant go past a reputable electronic boost controller. Cheaper options are Bleed tap type valves but they dont have any reactive capacity to overboost or boost spiking, which in the long run may prove painful. Check out aussie turbosmart boost tee, I think their around $60 new. There are heaps of other options too.

Dont forget to put a smear of lube (sick minds need not comment) on the thread of your plugs for easier removal next time.

I do know of the turbosmart boost tee but thought it basically did the same job as the one i have. Am i wrong?

And thanks for reminding me about the lube..i was told but forgot....i will do it....

I was amazed at the difference the plugs made , there the recommended ngk-R platinums. The initial response suffered slightly but once it comes onto boost & starts to rev it has feels like it has more pull... Though i can notice what i think is the wastegate more now. It is a noticable hissing like a release of pressure . Or am i confusing this for something else

I've been recommended the racing plugs with the recessed tip..Any opinions on these are they worth the brass

"It seems everybody is getting a turbo these days cause its the IN thing, And everyone knows how to spend up big on shiny stuff, but few seem to know how to make them work PROPERLY"

Can anyone tell me is a 2 3/4 inch exhaust standard?

Will a 3inch dump metallic cat and 3 inch pipe put a smile on my face to justify the $$$$$

The cars already run mid 12s

  • 2 weeks later...

You will find that the turbotech boost controllers are pretty good at holding spikes. Unlike bleed valves where the method of boost control is to restrict airflow along the hose and then bleed off to reduce wastegate pressure (and raise boost), the turbotech valves are actually a pressure reducing valve (an adjustable break pressure check valve, with a small bleed), and increases in boost pressure get to the wastegate much faster (there is no fixed restriction in the system, because it opens up quickly as boost exceeds the set point).

Also because of the 'pressure reducing valve' design, the wastegate doesn't actually see any pressure at all until 3-4psi below the max boost level. Ie with the valve open fully (assuming the wastegate has a 4psi spring in it, as most cars with electronic control do) the wastgate will see boost from 0psi. With the valve set to make 8psi, the valve will stay blocked until ~4psi. With the valve set to 12psi, it stays blocked until 8psi. So it's also pretty good for boost response.

The only 'wastegate opening early' problems you will have with the turbotech fitted will be at boost levels higher than the stock skyline ceramic turbo can live at (as in, some wastegates can blow open from exhaust pressure alone. At 20psi or so...)

No I don't sell them, I have just bought a couple and they worked well. The only gripe is that boost rises slightly with load (as in peak boost in 1st was 12psi, 2nd was 13, 3rd onwards was 14). But every pneumatic boost controller I have come across does that, regardless of design.

thanx for your reply makes sense. i got no boost gauge that works..so its a mystery what im running...i installed it out of the pack and opened it a 180 degree turn..but i dont think its any higher than 12ish.

with the old bleed valve the figures were

186 rwkw at 6300

592 nm at 3200

at 11psi

the turbotech valve i think is brilliant, boost comes on very early (2500approx) and is mega responsive.

The only reason im wondering is because it stops building power when i hear this leak..

im almost certain the turbo is not standard or ceramic.. im gunna have to get in and have a look just to satisfy my own curiosity. i may be wrong, but thats a lot of torque for a standard! I was told its a T3. But dont believe much im told... :)

Edited by doozooby

well turns out i has it all wrong...its a nissan 45v2. and the wheel is steel... if any one can shed light id be grateful...otherwise ill just keep scanning forums..

But now where did the power come from...pod filter...doubt it...muffler...doubt it....computer re-map...maybe.....doubt it...

Edited by doozooby

Opening the valve will drop boost (less spring pressure = more air gets past = wastegate opens sooner), but half a turn didn't do much at all on my GT.

There are three normal noises that a turbo car has over an otherwise identical car without one.

Turbo whistle - Sounds like someone trying to hiss. Gets louder/higher pitched with boost (and torque). You can hear this noise free-revving occasionally, in which case the hiss follow throttle position, but delayed and a lot quiter than it is while you are driving. If an air raid siren replaces the hiss generally turbo bearings are f.u.b.a.r.

Wastegate noise - Sounds like someone doing a really long "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" (with the standard exhaust). With a big exhaust it sounds similar, except when it does it the car gets slightly louder/harsher. With a screamer pipe it sounds like you are running without anything attached to the exhaust manifold, it's brain numbingly loud. You will only hear this while in gear and under load, and generally not in normal driving. If you hear this while free revving you are a) Lying. b)are *really* giving your car death in neutral, or c) Have a turbo 4 sizes too small for your engine.

Blow-off valve - Sounds like someone opening a screw top beer (even in standard cars, but it's quiter). Disconnecting the hose from the blow-off valve back to the pre-turbo intake will get that w*nk factor noise little old ladies hate so much. You will hear this a little bit when free revving, a lot when backing off at high loads, and every time you change gears (if yours is externally venting. If it is 'plumb back' you generally won't hear it in normal driving).

Now does the accelleration stop building (ie you get pushed back in your seat at a pretty constant rate (but less than what you want)) until you need to change gears, or does it actively drop off (ie a ghost puts the brakes on a bit in the top end of the rev band, and the 'push' drops off noticeably)?

*edited: Punctuation*

Edited by BLSTIC

Sorry when i said opened i guess i meant closed...clockwise...my mistake

its the shhhhhhhh noise and..it keeps making power i suppose its just not making as much power as i want..

..

blow off is standard and i like it that way, truth is id like to mod the car but want to keep the look standard, think ill even put the airbox back in...i was rather dissapointed to find a stock turbo and am seriously considering a mild upgrade something that fits in the original spot without too much drama ..and an ebc...can this be done for a coupla grand...im not interested in spending a fortune...i can do the work myself then take it to a dyno for tuning

Ive driven some heavy boosted cars and hate the way nothing happens till you hit 4000..

Im not a horsepower hero , i just like to drive...

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