Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas, was giving my car a bit of the lights yesterday, and when I took my car out of first gear and tried to put it in second it wouldn't go in and kept crunching.

It wouldn't go into ANY gear.

The only time it would go into gear was when the car was off, but you could not start it evem when you foot is pressing the clutch?

What could be wrong?

It was bizzare, when we were pushing it to get it off the road, it slipped into first gear and drove fine, so I am thinking it's not the clutch itself (but I had to take it out of gear when stationary otherwise the car would stall)

Could someone please give me an idea of what it may be and how much it would cost to fix?

Cheers

Any number of things.

Do you have fluid in the clutch master reservoir?

You may have a broken pedal box. Or you've dropped the pivot pin that holds the pushrod onto the pedal.

Yes, I have fluid in the clutch master resevoir.

There are no leaks of any sort...

How much would a pedal box cost to replace?

What's the worst case scenario that it could be, and how much would it cost to fix?

Cheers

synchro's? (mine cost $70 to replace my third gear synchro)

But not sure.

You said when you were in gear with clutch in the car would still move/stall?

Bleed your system and check from clutch pedal back and see what happens.

synchro's? (mine cost $70 to replace my third gear synchro)

But not sure.

You said when you were in gear with clutch in the car would still move/stall?

Bleed your system and check from clutch pedal back and see what happens.

When I adjusted my take up point, I found that my car would lock me out of 1st and 2nd occasionally. Try adjusting the take up point a little or replacing either the slave or master cyl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...