Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I had/have (not sure if it's still happening b/c I learned to drive in such a way it didn't happen) this problem with I bought my 33GTS-T

Basically if you just start getting on boost (>3200rpm or something) then put the clutch in the rev counter will fall all the way to 0 and your engine will die, is this right?

Two things you can do to to avoid the stalls:

- When you think your driving might cause this to happen, blip the throttle after you go into neutral/put the clutch in, and it'll stop the engine from dying

- If it does die and you're still rolling (even a little) just drop the clutch whilst in second gear and it'll force the engine to turn over and spring back to life.

Very annoying problem when I first got the car. A year later and it doesn't seem to happen anymore, but I'm not sure if that's because I just adjusted my driving to avoid it or in the 3x services between then they fixed it unknowingly.

yeah exactly my problem ae.. to the tee i got a 32 tho

umm yeah thats what ive been doing hey just dropping the clutch but i wanna try fix the problem..

i find it happens wen the engine is a bit cold so i warm it up befor i drive it but then sometimes just randomly wen i clutch it round a corning it will just die and the steering goes all hard so i just drop the clutch

not a clue wot could be causing it tho??

nah exactly like how i said it.

put the foot down every now and again usually its alright but sometimes wen i putt my foot down for a few seconds then hold the clutch for a bit its just dies.. reves drop from where ever its at at the time then drops to 0 and dies.

it happened once wen the engine was cold so i warm it up before i drive it but sitll does the same thing even wen i been driving for half an hour or so.

any ideas mate?

yup ive got a bov that isnt plumed into the air box or anything jsut straight into the atmosphere ..

what can i do to fix that? jut plumb it into the air box or wot?

The main issue is that the AFM is getting an incorrect signal due to the registered intake charge blowing off.

You need to use either a hybrid BOV which vents both to the atmo and recirculates (which still isn't a 100% fix) or replace the stock bypass valve and return the charge to the system after the AFM so it doesn't overfuel.

Yeah basically it is overfueling because the ECU is reading* air that isn't there.

On a side note, wtf are you clutching in around a corner? you should always go around corners in gear with clutch out.

Edited by bubba

This has just started happening on my car last night.

However the IDLE of my car is extremely rough. At idle, my car is missfiring that badly, it sounds like a 350 with the lumpiest possible cam it in. Yet while driving at anything above 1750RPM, it wont miss a beat.

Any ideas? I have read that it may be worth cleaning the AAC valve, however i do not believe that it is the coil packs or plugs, as if they were not funcitoning correctly, my car would missfire throughout the entire revrange. At idle, there is more resistance than while revving....

I have no idea why it wont idle properly/missfires like a b!tch....

Well it has been missfiring on idle for a few days last night, so i'm more concernced about that.

I have checked that, and all vacuum hoes are connected.....any other ideas lol?

Could it be my stock AFM is screwed?

New spark plugs went in about 1500-2000kms ago, copper plugs. Have always used NGK copper plugs (cant remember the code for the plug) and have never had any trouble.

AAC valve? Coil packs? Piston rings? I dont know what it could be >.<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...