Jump to content
SAU Community

For Sale - S13 Silvia Sr20de $6000 As Is

direct
 Share

Recommended Posts

direct Contributor

direct

Posted
Posted

hi all,

i've got my s13 for sale as i've got no licence atm and need to start prioritizing my life and focus on other things that are more important then the car.

so, i've got a 1991 s13 silvia.

its got around 117xxx on the clock and 90xxxkms on the engine, the previous owner bought a new engine from just jap late last year.

at the same time he replaced the clutch with an exedy replacement item, feels good, drives very well.

the car has new brake pads all round, the front rotors are stock and the rears are slotted, i have a set of 4 pot z32 calipers on the shelf that will come with the car, all that is needed for the upgrade is the rotors off a z32 300zx and a bigger brake master cylinder( $50 ).

the car has an apexi s13 super intake kit valued at $299, it has 4-1 jasma approved extractors which give it good top end power for an SR20DE, it has a full 2.5" exhaust which was custom made by liverpool exhausts, i have put on a set of 2.5" flutes on the back, they are very loud but i have got a cannon muffler that can be welded on if needed for the sale.

its rolling on a set of 15x7 +25 bbs meshies with good tread all round, up front is 8kg cusco coilovers and JIC 6kg on the rear.

the interior is pretty clean for its age, i have removed the rear seat and the interior trim from the boot, the plastic panel were in pretty bad shape as the previous owner was a bricky and used it to get to and from work <_<

the rear seat is ready to be bolted back in along with the seatbelts and anything else that was removed.

the front seats are in average condition, they are the stadard sr tweed seats, they are somewhat dirty and the drivers side bolster is finished.

i have a pair of front 300zx seats retrimmed in blue cloth for the front, just need to modify the rails to bolt them in as the z32 rails are not wide enough, will be included in the sale.

the car has adjustable strut braces up front and back, i am unsure of the brands as they came with the car when i bought it.

the paint on the car was pretty bad, had alot of scratches everywhere so i gave it a quick coat in matte black, it is not a pretty looking car BUT, for $7000 total price the car will be resprayed in any basic colour at the buyers choice by a professional panel beater, not a dodgy backyard job.

the car will have to be sanded down and prep'd for the respray like any car and if the buyer wants to go ahead with the respray i will require the asking price of the car before any prep or paint will commence.

i have alot of plans for this car, i would LOVE to keep it and eventually turn it into some sort of weekend track weapon but things in my life need to change for the best, i have found myself focusing on the car more then my career and it needs to stop hence the sale.

so, $6000 for the car as is, with the z32 300zx 4 pot calipers for the front + the pair of 300zx retrimmed front seats + cannon muffler.

OR

$7000 for the car + a professional respray of the buyers choice (custom colour will be extra along with any body work ect.)

- link to my original for sale ad http://www.nissansilvia.com/classifieds/vi...g.php?view=2681 -

call or text

no longer interested in trades

0433185307

james

deprived777 Enthusiast

deprived777

Posted
Posted
CAR MUST GO ASAP, NO LICENCE AND NO JOB SO I NEED THE CASH

Hey,how much with a body kit thrown on aswell and resprayed?

email me more info and some pics if u can:)

[email protected]

direct Contributor

direct

Posted
  • Author
Posted

atm i cant afford to buy a kit and chuck it on when its sprayed, if you want to go that way with it, we do the deal and you supply the kit, spoiler whatever you want and bring it to me, i'll have to sand down the car myself but everything else will be done at a panel shop.

i'd much rather just sell it as it is and be done with the car as i have no job now and need the money.

direct Contributor

direct

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no longer offering the respray, i do not have the cash available to prep the car for paint.

the asking price is $6000, that is what i am asking, will not sell for anything less.

not $5k, not $5,500... $6000 cash as it is right now, if not i will just keep the car untill i get my licence back.

will consider trades for an R32

  • 2 weeks later...
direct Contributor

direct

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i'm located in wollongong guys.

if your interested please leave a post here so i can keep track of it as i dont have any credit due to lack of job/licence.

post here or call me if interested.

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...