Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as some of you may or may not know... a month or two ago my R33 was hit in the ass while i was parked at a red light.

after that incident the car ended up like this:

post-39016-1250761162_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1250761195_thumb.jpg

I then sold the car onto a friend who has taken to attempting to fix it up to use as a drift/track car or even re register it and drive it.

His progress so far:

1. Cut into bits

post-39016-1250761283_thumb.jpg

2. bent up boot floorpan replaced

post-39016-1250761334_thumb.jpg

3. Shell re-attached and taced on

post-39016-1250761409_thumb.jpg

post-39016-1250761446_thumb.jpg

Still alot of work to go yet obviously, but its coming along nicely

I was estimated $8000 - $11000 to have this repaired at a body shop.

So far he has spent $500 on a quarter cut from a wreckers and a fair few days of his time.

Next step is full weld up, grind back, then a million hours of sanding.

Just thought some of you guys might be interested as i think he's done a top job so far. (he has never attempted any body work bar flaring guards with a guard roller before)

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284301-the-restoration/
Share on other sites

real nice job he's doing there

only suggestion i can make is to take more paint off around the joins before welding, dont want any weaknesses introducted through impurities in the weld

that and the normal tack move tack move process for panel welding.

hope it all works out clean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284301-the-restoration/#findComment-4779668
Share on other sites

I did this to my silvia when i crashed it in the hills. joins between the rear taillights and half way down the left qtr panel... Like said above make sure you take your time with the welding... .8 sheet is too easy to warp... if you have a tig it's much easier... when your done make sure you seal the inside with zinc fortified paint or alike (and any panels that are to be spot welded back at the seams must be painted before they are joined..)

It's really not all that hard if you use common sense. best for me was finding a silvia at U-pull it. so got the whole qtr for $88 :P . cost me les than $130 all done with spray can paint (still needs a proper paint job but...)

Good that you can take some time over it, i had to get mine done in one sunday!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284301-the-restoration/#findComment-4781651
Share on other sites

no idea man haha, he seems to be doing alright though.

I'll ask him about it when i see him next though.

im pretty sure he's using it with gas but im not 100%

Wow, good shiz!

How good is your friend finding the CigWeld mig for welding body panels? I'm assuming you are using it with gas?

They are quite good value units, I am curious to see how good they are!

he's also looking for a rear windscreen, so if anyones got one let me know! cheers

Edited by stenve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284301-the-restoration/#findComment-4804085
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

been a while since i've thrown up an update so heres where it's at now:

its all sanded back smooth and joined and aligned and in undercoat

post-39016-1254824504_thumb.jpg

front bar got a redoing as well

post-39016-1254824555_thumb.jpg

it cost him something like $400 for 2 litres of paint or something insane

Its a 3 step system which involves a silver base coat

then a diluted layer of green so it isnt so opaque and the silver shines through to create the gold pearl.

then the clear coat.

He's a bit scared to paint it now because he has to blend and somehow try to replicate the same green colour with his mixture.

any tips?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284301-the-restoration/#findComment-4865220
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...