Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello SAUWA!

I have recently been experiencing a very strange problem with my R33 (RB25DET) that has me at wit's end! After searching the forums and finding write-ups regarding similar issues, I thought I would post here for clarification.

I am not a man of a mechanical background, and have little experience with these types of issues...

During periods of low revs (such as circumventing speed humps, pulling up to park, pulling up to a traffic light etc) my car will often run very roughly, and will generally stall. This does not happen during all drives however, and quite often the car will run perfectly.

During these 'rough' periods, the vehicle will idle highly irregularly... almost stalling, then revving on it's own accord (if it doesn't just flat out stall).

I have uploaded a video via Youtube which depicts one such occasion of 'rough' idling.

My engine is mostly stock, but I am however running a brand new set of split-fires.

Any Ideas as to what problem is occurring here?

Before I take the car into a professional mechanic I would just like to run it past the SAU community.

Flooding? Dirty AAC? Vacuum leak? Battery?

Any help/advice is deeply appreciated! Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284362-rough-idle-and-stalling-issues/
Share on other sites

give your IACV a clean, there was a thread a few days ago about the same thing.

Vac leak can also make the car idle quite rough. - so check your vac lines.

flooding, unlikely. if the above fails, start ur car up at home, and let it splutter and stall. then take out ur spark plugs and check if theyre wet/smell like fuel.

Hey mate,

I have been having the EXACT same problem with my R33 in the last week.

I found out a few days ago that it was the gasket that sits between the upper & lower parts of the intake manifold had been "sucked" into the manifold itself. Therefore, what was actually happening was that extra air was CONSTANTLY being sucked in where the gasket should have been sitting.

As this extra air was "leaking" in, my car has also been running very lean (the AFM & computer can't detect this "extra" air).

This evening i removed my intake manifold (holy flerking schnit), and took the old gasket out - i think it had just dis-lodged but seeing as it is now out and i have a new one, the new one will go in!

I also notice that the 'bananas' (pipes the the air flow through to the cylinders) were progressivley darker in colour as i looked at cylinder 1-6 (1 being at the front of the engine). Cylinder 1 was almost clean - the manifold looked brand new there, however cylinder 6 was completely black. Now i am assuming that this is because of the air leaking where the gasket had dis-lodges - i'm not sure.

Anyway, sorry for the long write-up, but that was why my car was not idling properly and stalling/revving on it's own accord. I have not checked the AAC Valve (Auxilary Air Control Valve, located at the back of the intake manifold next to the firewall - this controls the idle speed of the car).

I hope this info helps you identify the problem you have at hand!

Cheers.

P.S. I havn't put the new gasket on yet or put the manifold back on, so i'm not sure if that was the only problem causing the idle to be rough etc etc.

Hey mate,

I have been having the EXACT same problem with my R33 in the last week.

I found out a few days ago that it was the gasket that sits between the upper & lower parts of the intake manifold had been "sucked" into the manifold itself. Therefore, what was actually happening was that extra air was CONSTANTLY being sucked in where the gasket should have been sitting.

As this extra air was "leaking" in, my car has also been running very lean (the AFM & computer can't detect this "extra" air).

This evening i removed my intake manifold (holy flerking schnit), and took the old gasket out - i think it had just dis-lodged but seeing as it is now out and i have a new one, the new one will go in!

I also notice that the 'bananas' (pipes the the air flow through to the cylinders) were progressivley darker in colour as i looked at cylinder 1-6 (1 being at the front of the engine). Cylinder 1 was almost clean - the manifold looked brand new there, however cylinder 6 was completely black. Now i am assuming that this is because of the air leaking where the gasket had dis-lodges - i'm not sure.

Anyway, sorry for the long write-up, but that was why my car was not idling properly and stalling/revving on it's own accord. I have not checked the AAC Valve (Auxilary Air Control Valve, located at the back of the intake manifold next to the firewall - this controls the idle speed of the car).

I hope this info helps you identify the problem you have at hand!

Cheers.

P.S. I havn't put the new gasket on yet or put the manifold back on, so i'm not sure if that was the only problem causing the idle to be rough etc etc.

I'll have to get this looked into...

Thank you both for your prompt replies!

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...