Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alrite peeps!

went skiddings there the other day in a big yard, pics to come soon,some pretty good ones! heres a quick video anyways

Seriously need more lock! and hicas lock out as the ball joints are f**ked. And the turbo and mani got so hot the oil return melted! boo.oh well

also a few more of Simon Connaughtons pics, he drives the red trueno, this was before we went to that yard above! check http://tyteslippers.blogspot.com/

_1010330-1.jpg

_1010318-1-1.jpg

_1010319-1.jpg

_1010327-1.jpg

_1010336-1.jpg

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey dude, a while ago I suggested ImportMonster, disregard that. Your easier bet will be Nengun

http://www.nengun.com/

On the collumn on the left, de-select New and Used, and select only YahooAuctions (this is YahooAuctions Japan), and search for A31.

Nengun are more flexible for shipping parts to locations apart from Australia.

HICAS lock bars are about $150 AUD (I have no idea what that works out to in whatever currency you use locally) and is a few hours work to fit and return the PS lines.

For more lock alot of people use S14 "hubs" (knuckle assembly) and use rose jointed tie rod ends (steering rack is different between S13/A31 and S14

Braided lines fixes your overheating issue, kits available for RB20.

Looking good. Always amazed by the number of new drift scars on that poor front bar everytime you update :cool:

Wowsers! thanks for the reply lads!

so i had a look at my hicas, the ball joints and the rack were f**ked. so i got this, sexy time!!

DSC00709.jpg

DSC00710.jpg

once i have some more cash ill use this thread for reference as togetting more lock!

poor front bumpers in some state :) But i want to go lower :wub:

  • 1 month later...

WIN ALERT, WIN ALERT!!!

Well my hicas is in as you can see here

DSC00929.jpg which lead me to get pissed off with my shitty hiding itself exhaust, which is like this

DSC00926.jpg

DSC00928.jpg

soooooo

One robbed 6ft length of steel, cut in two

DSC00930.jpg

cut my old system in half, and tabbed on roughly where wed like this one

DSC00932.jpg

DSC00933.jpg

DSC00934.jpg

DSCF1411.jpg

DSC00931.jpg

DSC00935.jpg

however the apexi exhaust control valve wasnt happy with its ground clearance so i had to take it out

DSC00937.jpg

but f**k it, looks bad ass. Thanks mick and jay!

DSC00938.jpg

DSC00941.jpg

I also took my tint off as you can see.

Thoughts? It sounds f**kin awesome and i think it looks bad ass aswell, happy out!

Edited by PeterT
Looks badass, maybe shorten it a tad though, like 2 in. or so.

I LOL'd @ pic of your mate being hero with the shotgun.

haha thats me in the green tee , big mature head on me :whistling:

Once i shine them up ill see if im still happy with the length!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
looking hot :P

Nic, what have i said about hicas knuckles

DSC00929.jpg

yeh man, DW hicas kit is the bomb!

Greddy TD05 - bought

power fc - bought

gtr injectors - bought

exedy stage 2 paddle clutch - bought

GTR calipers and disks - bought

Shes on the way to being quicker!

  • 2 weeks later...

raaar

0368fec4.jpg

8277537c.jpg

74658296.jpg

9b9721d5.jpg

6bcbea08.jpg

2943f51e.jpg

Also, just bought this.

Ive no idea what the f**k it is but its for a cefiro! which is a rare find for anything

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REAR-ROOF-V...sQ5fAccessories

Edited by PeterT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...