Jump to content
SAU Community

Dilemma!

OMG513

By OMG513,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

OMG513 Collaborator

OMG513

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

I'm quite new to this forum and have recently become a member of SAU NSW club. I've tried searching with some success, PM'd people on the forum who've helped me out quite a bit and have even spoken to people outside but still no practical solution.

OK case is ... Just recently I've got my hands on a R33 gtst series 1 but not a normal one, the whole body except doors, roof and rear fenders are carbon, RB26DETT swap thats been rebuilt plus aftermarket turbos, Full roll cage through the whole thing, pretty much a race car. The car is currently road registered in QLD but now because i've got it down here in NSW, i'll have to do the whole rego thing again. Now this is where it starts to get complicated.

GOAL: To be able to drive the car to the track or workshop and back home without getting in trouble with the authorities.

I've sussed out a couple of options:

1. Taken a look at Rally registration - This seemed to be the perfect idea until i spoke to Graham Humphries who is the person who pretty much puts through all the cars through the rally rego system. Because people have been abusing the system, things have changed since the past. So after much talk with Graham, the way its going to work now is that they don't like rally rego'd cars to be used as a system for general motorsport and used only in Rally. And with rally theres pretty much only dirt or tarmac. I aint doing dirt but with tarmac they're mostly interstate which again i ain't doing. So conclusion: NO GO

2. Get the whole car engineered, blue slipped then rego'd - I've been recommended by many to go to Autosport Engineering, so i've spoken to Greg regarding my case and what i'd like to do. Greg's a top bloke, was happy to answer any question i gave him and this seemed like the go until.... we found out that the engineer was notified by the rta that under no condition is he allowed to give an engineers report to any cars of this nature. Apparently there having a crackdown on road rego race cars. So conclusion: NO GO

3. There was an idea to revert the car back to stock to get it blue slipped as a standard car and then put everything back on. I thought that this would prove difficult as everything is pretty much modified so it would take alot of time and labor to get everything back to stock and back on. Besides even if after all that effort and the cars back on the road i'd probably get harrassed by authorities because i have no engineering papers. So conclusion: NO GO

4. Towing the car to and from the track using a trailor - I dont have the finances to afford a trailor plus no car that is capable of towing it. So again its a simple NO GO

This is proving to be such a headache, please guys if you have any ideas please fire away. Thanks for your time

Cheers,

Kevin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285081-dilemma/
Share on other sites
s13_Skyline_inside Proficient

s13_Skyline_inside

Posted
Posted

lol yeh pics would be nice, but i really dont think you can get a full cage and the carbon body parts engineered in and way shape or form apart from a dodgy one in nsw, the engine transplant you could get engineered, cover the pod, no atmo bov or atmo catch can, if using external pumps and external surge tank then that needs a fully enclosed box that drains to outside of the vehicle.

If you do only intend on using it as a race car and not driving it on the road, rather than going through all the hassle and might I add extra cost of mucking around with it to get it to an engineering level then paying for all the engineering, blue slip rego etc, just find yourself a car trailer for a good price and then go buy a 90's model v6 auto dunny door with a tow ball, would do the job. You could fit a change of tires and a heap of junk in the back if you bought a wagon.

also can I ask how much you paid for the r33? oh yeh and pics :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285081-dilemma/#findComment-4788862
Share on other sites
Turk1 Proficient

Turk1

Posted
Posted
Ahh... but man... i don't have the finances and storage place for another car plus a trailor

Hmm then your best bet would to get it engineered and regoed. I guess it will be tough but maybe just strip it back so it can be engineered, then get it regoed. This way your car will be a part of NSW lol and you can continue on from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285081-dilemma/#findComment-4789171
Share on other sites
OMG513 Collaborator

OMG513

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its not the fact that i badly want it on the road, its just i wanted to get it to the track and back home with the least amount of effort and troubles. And i thought by registering it legally that would be best.

hehe i thought of that as well but apparently we can get carbon parts engineered here in nsw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285081-dilemma/#findComment-4792588
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...