Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, my brother is doing up his datsun 1600 with a worked 1.8L engine and I myself, am considering buying an R34 GT Skyline (n/a). So my question is, would i win when we drag each other off the lights? (theoretically) :D . (remember i own the r34.).

(note. the datsun weights 980 kg (or somethin like tha)t and the skyline weighs 1400kg (that's not real accurate i know lol). My bro's datsun puts out 80kw of power.

Luke.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285235-who-is-the-winner/
Share on other sites

lol sh*****t thread, and I'd DEFINITELY go the Datto over a N/A Skyline. If his has 80rwkw and 900kg that's pretty good power to weight ratio.

To put this in perspective, the gf's 1200 with 35rwkw will go tearing past 5 litre V8s at the green light grand prix up to say 50km/h or 3rd gear ;)

would i win when we drag each other off the lights?

I hadn't yet seen the line up of events for this year's Special Olympics. Didn't realise they'd added this one.

the gf's 1200 with 35rwkw will go tearing past 5 litre V8s at the green light grand prix up to say 50km/h or 3rd gear ;)

Yep, and then at the next snap into 4th you're going to be doing the speed limit anyway, and the oh so thrilling "drag race" comes to a halt unless you're mentally retarded :D

Is is school holidays somewhere? It's not in Brisbane... what's going on with the rest of the country?

Edited by Isola

lol yeah thats right, its good fun though, I reckon it would have better 0-50 acceleration than my turbo Skyline quite easily too.

I know this because when I had a V8, I'd always get chomped by Datsuns, which would always back off at 60 lol.

These days I don't bother (and because I'd be going over the limit in my car before it really started to go anywhere).

and yeah pointless thread, in summation, Datsun > later model Nissan at the Green Light Grand Prix based on the scientific evidence I have assembled.

LOL, a guy i used to work with had a 1200 ute and he used to be in 3rd gear by the time he got across the traffic lights, although he was only doing about 40km/h, LOL

but tell him to ditch the 1.8L and get a worked L20. can get around 115-120kw out of them if you don't mind replacing headgaskets at every oil change, LOL

lol shitkunt thread, and I'd DEFINITELY go the Datto over a N/A Skyline. If his has 80rwkw and 900kg that's pretty good power to weight ratio.

To put this in perspective, the gf's 1200 with 35rwkw will go tearing past 5 litre V8s at the green light grand prix up to say 50km/h or 3rd gear ;)

Really? so my 40rwkw 780kg kit car won't be that slow after all :)

So my question is, would i win when we drag each other off the lights? (theoretically) :D . (remember i own the r34.).

(note. the datsun weights 980 kg (or somethin like tha)t and the skyline weighs 1400kg (that's not real accurate i know lol). My bro's datsun puts out 80kw of power.

Luke.

Thanks in advance.

Rank: RB20E

*

Posts: 13

Joined: 18th May, 2009

Car(s): Mazda 1000 1975

Real Name: Luke

Trader Rating : 0

It would appeat that you will be sitting behind the Datsuns wishing your Mazdabater was that quick...

In answer to your question how long is a piece of string?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...