Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spraying on top of existing paint mostly won't work...

they need to be sanded down to metal, re-prep with undercoat then new paint on... that is the proper way to do it...

lots of work, they're probably do a lazy work...

which shop did you take it to? r u in melb?

I took them back and he admitted that the baking process wasn't done correctly. I had a feeling that they didnt remove the paint from the rim and just sprayed over the shiny area which would have resulted in this.

He said that it would take 2 weeks for the paint to properly cure. i can wash the car during these 2 weeks just not with one of those pressure hoses. I got them painted that factory shadow chrome which is a tricky colour apparently. Next time i am thinking to get all 4 wheels painted either gloss black or the same colour as the car which is silver.

Sounds like they are full of excuses and hot air, I wouldn't be so forgiving. They didn't do the job right and then they try and palm you off with some sorry excuse about the baking process not being done properly. Then they expect you to live with it and go away. You have the right to a refund or to have the job redone to an acceptable standard.

Personally, I would demand a refund at this point, you gave them a chance and they proved they are either lazy or lack the skill. Either way, you paid for a job to be done and it wasn't.

If they refuse to refund, or at the very least, redo the job properly, then lodge a complaint with the NSW Office of Fair Trading. Make sure you advise them first before lodging the complaint, as just the mention of it might be enough incentive to change their mind.

f**k that off.

Tell them to either get it done properly (sanded/blasted back to metal, prepped, painted, clearcoated), or give you a full refund. He's already admitted to not doing the job properly.

When Magman did my wheels he charged less than that, and that included bead blasting the original anodize off the wheels. It took time but it came out well.

Otherwise, drop Craved a PM and see if he can replicate the finish you want with powdercoating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...