Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Question About Fmic Kits

rance

By rance,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

it will be the pressure signal for the actuator. on the turbo there will be a gold coloured bubble with a nipple on it

that vac line needs to run to that nipple (and through any boost controller you may have) to make sure the actuator opens

when pressure on that vac line reaches a certain level, (ie your target boost level) the spring in the gold blubble moves, which moves the actuator rod, which opens the wastegate flap on the turbocharger to maintain stable boost

if you block this line or dont connect it, or get it wrong, or forget, you have unlimited boost and youll kill the engine / turbo

rance Contributor

rance

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

cool thanks alot...

so it runs from the actuator to the turbo?

or the boost controller to the turbo?

sorry im not too sure where it should go... and all the diy tutorials i can find says nothing of this

would the stock smic have this line too?... that way i can just see how they've done it ?

btw i have a stock gtt boost controller .... do i still need to run the vac line through it?

thx

Edited by rance
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

If you have a boost controller it runs there. It only goes straight to the actuator if you dont have a controller. If your boost controller is already pumbed in, then you might as well leave it as is and block off the feed that comes with the kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Intercooler Choice

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • r33.antwone
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By r33.antwone · Posted

      that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • Toilet Goblin
      Intercooler Choice

      By Toilet Goblin · Posted

      ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • GTSBoy
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...