Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to sell and move on, details as follows:

1990 Nissan HCR32 GTS-t - 90,000k's

Manual

Rego til Jan 2010

ENGINE/COOLING

RB20DET with 80,000k's (purchased from JPC)

Fitted with Trust 1.2mm metal head gasket.

Motul 8100 5w-40 engine oil, GENUINE Nissan filter (NEW)

Apexi Pod filter

HYBRID GT intercooler kit

R32 stock radiator and new GENUINE Nissan thermostat.

INDUCTION/EXHAUST

Stock RB20 turbo in excellent condition with no shaft play.

Stock dump and GKTECH 3" front pipe (NEW)

3" Highflow cat Converter or GKTECK decat pipe (NEW)

Stock rear muffler or xforce 3" cat back

DRIVELINE

Exedy Heavy Duty clutch, stock gearbox with C's short shifter

Currently fitted with 2 way but can sell with shimmed stock diff

new gearbox and diff oil

SUSPENSION/HANDLING/BRAKES

R32 GTS-t 4pot front calipers and rotors EBC Green Stuff pads (NEW)

R32 GTS-t 2pot rear calipers and Ultimate race pads

Front & rear strut brace

Tein coilovers & springs (non adjustable)

INTERIOR

CYCLOPS alarm/immobiliser & GReddy turbo timer

GENUINE NISSAN floor mats front and rear

Working Climate control & A/C

NISMO Dash cluster

EXTERIOR

Custom blue respray

Type M front bar & skirts

Stock rear bar

WHEELS

Silver RAYS SYVER 16x8 front and rear

Brand New Bridgestone tyres front and rear

I am sure I am forgetting a few things but will update when necessary.

Car has been off the road for the past 3 years and only just converted back to stock turbo set up to sell. Body is in great condition with no major dents and car has never been involved in any major accidents. Few stone chips on front bar/bonnet but other than that paint is in great condition and interior is in excellent condition.

$10,500ono

Contact via PM or 0411 431 149.

Cheers,

Ben

Will update with new pics when the weather cleans up.

1.jpg

5.jpg

frontview.jpg

rearseat.jpg

doortrims.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285821-fs-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...