Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys im currently thinking about selling my pride and joy as i think ive had my time with her. ive owned the car since December 04 when it had 94,000kms and completely stock till what it is now and has 130,000kms.

mods include:

INTERNALS

Aries Forged Pistons

Crower Rods

ARP Mains studs

ACL Bearings

R33 GTR crank

HEAD

ARP Head Studs

Tomie adjustable cam pulley Inlet

Tomie adjustable cam pulley Exhaust

Tomie Pro Cam Inlet

Tomie Pro Cam Exhaust

Tomie type C Valve Springs

INJECTION

Rochester 1000cc injectors

HKS Fuel Rail

Aeromotive fuel reg

Advan surge tank

Twin bosch 044 pumps

One bosch 040 in tank

Earls fittings

Greddy Plenum

TURBO SETUP

HKS T51R SPL BB

HKS manifold

HKS 60mm wastegate

Trust 4inch cooler

Trust piping kit

4 inch custom stainless dump from turbo to the cat

IGNITION

Autronic sm4

CDI 500R

Battery relocated to the boot

Other engine accessories/detailing

ARC air diffuser

HKS 51R funnel

Greddy oversized pully kit

Trust oil pump

Trust sump extension

Trust radiator

Ross tuff bond harmonic balancer

N1 water pump

Setrab oil cooler

Custom Petrie racing catch can

DRIVE LINE

Os giken Triple plate clutch

BRAKES

R33 V-spec master cylinder

RDA rotors front and rear

QFM K750 pads front and rear

Accessories

Brake cylinder stopper

Braided brake lines front and rear

Greddy clear timming cover

HKS EBC III

Inovate A/F gauge

SUSPENSION:

HKS hyper max II coil overs

Greddy front strut brace

Hi cas lock bar

WHEELS & TYRES:

16inch R32 GTR wheels with RE55's 16/50/235 traveled roughly 5000kms

Also comes with 17inch R33 GTR wheels with brand new RE55's 17/40/255

INTERIOR:

standard

STEREO:

Chameleon head unit

car makes 400RWKW on 25psi and pump fuel

plates may be included not sure yet, car currently has R32 wheels on it as photos were taken before semi slicks were put on. will also include R33 GTR gearbox with broken 3rd gear :P

Any questions dont hesitate to ask

Price: $39,000

As posted i am currently only looking at EOI and car does NOT include RWC.

will post pics soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286570-eoi-94-silver-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

hey there very very nice car

1 question though why the lack of power ?? 25psi with a t51r spl should be making alot alot more than that

i have kinda the same build with a small gt35r turbo running 385rwkw on 21psi why is yours so low

other than that its a very well built car GL selling it champ i bet you will miss it

umm lack of power? maybe it actually makes 430 RWKW but i guess depends on whos dyno and tune, lots of unknown variables. turbo is just starting to come into efficiency range so would probably get better with more boost. 400 is just an easy number, thats why i put it there.

and thanks guys for all the coments :domokun:

I think this car was the car i seen racing at heathcote park raceway not to long ago.

What's she run mate and i gather she was raced on full power as i seen she was trailered there.

Very very nice didnt know it had such a setup underneath the hood.

  • 8 months later...

I have the same car a Original condition 94 model silver r32 GTR.

It has the original wheels, Exhaust, Steering Wheel, Airbox and Mags. It also has a perfect shiny paint job.

It only has two small things I need to get fixed. The left rear trim has come loose and I need a new Drivers sealt cover because there is a frayed patch on it, but luckily my friend at the car company I bought it from is going to fix those things for me, Then my car will be 100% original and in perfect condition.

I have uploaded a picture of what my car looks like, I will upload some Photo's soon when Iget a Chance.

Thanks Chriso181

post-73886-1275125826_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...