Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

got em on,

heres the details:

work vs xx

18x10 front +13

18x12 rear unknown offset (there was no stickers on em and i couldn't be arsed measuring for now, just wanted em on)

20mm rear flare will just cover the tread on the stretched tyre but rim will still stick out, front will be fine with a 15mm flare.

th_workvsxx2.jpg th_workvsxx3.jpg th_workvsxx1.jpg

and nisskid, take a look at jms old r33 skid car, that had flared gtr guards on it...

in fact i have a pic of it uploaded here:

th_JMS_R33.jpg

not many things make a 33 look good as its a very bubbly and weird shape to begin with, but those flares on gtr guards are hawwwt.

Holy mother of god.

That first picture is porn.

haha thats fair enough, who did your guards?

did them myself, but will be going fibreglass wider guards, easier to repair, and by repair i mean replace haha. will just put a new pair of guards on every time i hit them.

Hey marko if u don't mind abit of painting cracking and rippling I can roll then flare/pump.

Just be careful you don;t pop the pannel in at the top when you stretch the guard to flare the wheel arch. i think with the amount that the guard has the be stretched in this case it would be better to cut and fill the guard at the wheel arch.

Edited by D_Stirls

picked these up for 300 today, polished them a little

R32 GTR 17inch x 9.5inch wide wheels, designed by uwe jean ballou

will fit on my Marshal Matrac 235/45/17 tyres after a little more polishing.

perhaps paint the centre? black, grey or white?

polish more & more and fit + wheel align ready for Mallala

awheel.jpg

picked these up for 300 today, polished them a little

R32 GTR 17inch x 9.5inch wide wheels, designed by uwe jean ballou

will fit on my Marshal Matrac 235/45/17 tyres after a little more polishing.

perhaps paint the centre? black, grey or white?

polish more & more and fit + wheel align ready for Mallala

Good son of rajab those rims are stupendously ugly... no wonder u got them for $300... they should make pretty good track rims but argh, my eyes....

and i vote u get them powdercoated pink

-D

:)

they might look good fitted ?

Nah.

They wont

Sorry man :bunny:

Those rims >almost< make me not want to own an r32 gtr becos u have said they're associated with a 32 gtr. i feel like ive been raped n stuff... :~(

-D

But its got dish, therefore them wheels are baller as.

Probably paint the centre black though it does look fine as is and it'd probably suit something old school - although, do fit them to the Stagea and see how it looks - may or may not look good.

cleaned up all the rims with stone grinding drill bits, and sanded what I could

cleaned up the gutter rash with angle grinder sandpaper disc

painted the inside black, and the outside

bit dodgy but never mind I'll try another coat of black in an hours time

then a can of clear coat, rip off the masking tape and polish the dish some more

17x9.5" +23 offset

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...