Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r32 goodies and Some r34 parts for sale

Wolf v500 Ecu plus hand controller $2100

wolfv500.th.jpg

R32 GTR injectors $300

injectors.th.jpg

Rb20. possibly rb25? Oil filter Relocation Kit. Don’t know what brand. Says made in USA. Probably Gates.

oilfilter.th.jpg

Rb20det polished manifold…. $100?

manifold.th.jpg

Rb20 polished crossover pipe + BOV $50

crossover.th.jpg

Rb20/25 turbo exhaust manifold $60

Rb20 stock intercooler $35

cooleru.th.jpg

Rb20det green label afm has a small tare in mesh. Worked fine on my car. $100

afm3.th.jpg

Rb20det CAS $80

casfj.th.jpg

Rb20det ECU $220

ecui.th.jpg

Rb20det rocker covers sprayed blue $50

rockercovers.th.jpg

R34gtt rb25neo turbo with heat shield and dump. No shaft play at all!! $480

r34turbo.th.jpg

Im guessing you didnt get a PM back on the controller?

nup not yet sorry. im not going to sell it separately unless i know i have a buyer for each

hey mate who does your work for you? check out the link in my sig

hey

if you can put a nistune chip in my r34 ecu and tune it for less then $700 you can do my work.

still no reply about relocation kit...??

hey sorry for the late reply

its not for sale anymore. i might end up using it. if i dont ill msg you if its still for sale

  • 2 months later...

Price drop.

Wolf v500 Ecu plus hand controller $1850

R32 GTR injectors $230

Rb20. possibly rb25? Oil filter Relocation Kit. Don’t know what brand. Says made in USA. Probably Gates. $70

Rb20det polished manifold…. $50?

Rb20 polished crossover pipe + BOV $50

Rb20/25 turbo exhaust manifold $60

Rb20 stock intercooler $35

Rb20det green label afm has a small tare in mesh. Worked fine on my car. $100

Rb20det CAS $80 SOLD

Rb20det ECU $150

Rb20det rocker covers sprayed blue $40

R34gtt rb25neo turbo with heat shield and dump. $370

  • 2 weeks later...
hey buddy,

have you still go that ECU for sale???

if so i need it for a R34. will if work??

thanks

V

hey mate.

yes i still have it

no it wont work with an r34. you will need to purchase an r34 adapter from wolf or have your loom rewired.

thanks

Edited by beRwick_GTRage
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...