Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after a front strut brace for my car and ive been looking for a while now and nothing out there realy seems that great, ie they all look pretty skinny or just have a basic flat bar design...i know these may be satisfactory but im after sumfin abit more chunky and somthing that looks great

ive seen a nismo titanium one...but ummm nooo deal i think he wanted $600 for it LOL

what kind of strut braces are people using and are happy with?

pics would be great too

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287355-front-strut-brace/
Share on other sites

http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...riesstiffening/

Few to look at there. Last time I was in there they had a tri-brace for an R33 which is kind of cool looking I guess. Maybe ask them about that.

I have a whiteline one that came on the car. I bent it slightly, not the bar but the actual strut top brace the bar is attached to. Sooo.... I am not happy with it.

Wheres the Nismo titanium strut brace for $600? :D love the look of them and the titanium Z tune version...

Theres one on yahoo japan for YEN180,000 (2k) its the only one i've seen for sale..

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f63428296

Wheres the Nismo titanium strut brace for $600? :thanks: love the look of them and the titanium Z tune version...

Theres one on yahoo japan for YEN180,000 (2k) its the only one i've seen for sale..

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f63428296

that looks hot

one went on ebay not so long ago for $600 odd

bugger, been looking for one for a while now.. oh well another one might pop up soon..

the hks kansia bar also looks good. there was one if the forsale section not long ago for 200odd..

what do people think of the carbon fibre strut bars ? are they any good? strong? etc

im looking at the justjap carbon fibre front strut brace for r33 gtst http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=378&page=1

Can't feel the difference with or without the brace. Maybe i'm just a shit driver.

With the front you will feel a difference.....not so much with the rear.

You should feel a significant difference with the front one especially if you're still sporting the standard suspension. Upgraded suspension you probably won't as much but it still doesn't go astray. Every little bit helps in the end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...