Jump to content
SAU Community

Jenesis R30 Flares

Ghostrider

By Ghostrider,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted
Don't know ........................... let me get them first, but there costing AU$450 + freight out of Japan.

Cheers, D

It would want to come with some very happy endings for that price!

I'd put my name up for a set if they were getting around

  • 2 weeks later...
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
I have some bigger flares I bought from Japan for mine; this size

488a8457c9276.jpg

If anyone is interested, Id let them go at the right price.

Steve

They look like chopped 'Type-1' ZG flares to me...

(i.e as fitted to the HS30H 240ZG)

  • 3 weeks later...
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
  • Author
Posted
good luck with your overly priced bits of plastic Ghost

Dave,

I thought you were intelligent, but I guess you were standing behind the door when it was being handed out eh?

As I have said before, I need to get them before I can evaluate them, but I would assume they would be of some reasonable quality, because Jenesis doesn't sell junk. And to Birth, it wouldn't matter what they were made of, but there has to be something to make a mould from and not just be GP versions that need a lot of bog & putty to smooth them so they look the part and if they are so easy to copy, how come someone hasn't done it already.

Go for it, take your shots at anything I have put up, but just keep in mind Dave, your trying to sell a car that looks like it's $200.00 for $4000.00? PRESENTATION is just about EVERYTHING and you're presenting a sh!tbox and a POVERTY PACK at that.

Cheers, D

GTR30 Community Regular

GTR30

Posted
Posted
Dave,

I thought you were intelligent, but I guess you were standing behind the door when it was being handed out eh?

As I have said before, I need to get them before I can evaluate them, but I would assume they would be of some reasonable quality, because Jenesis doesn't sell junk. And to Birth, it wouldn't matter what they were made of, but there has to be something to make a mould from and not just be GP versions that need a lot of bog & putty to smooth them so they look the part and if they are so easy to copy, how come someone hasn't done it already.

Go for it, take your shots at anything I have put up, but just keep in mind Dave, your trying to sell a car that looks like it's $200.00 for $4000.00? PRESENTATION is just about EVERYTHING and you're presenting a sh!tbox and a POVERTY PACK at that.

Cheers, D

I'm sorry ghost, i didn't mean to offend and i do appreciate you concern when it come to the sale of my 'poverty' pack... i am glad your thoughts are with me and i hope not all your judgements are based on first sight..

best of luck mate and say hi to the misses.

Birth Experienced

Birth

Posted
Posted

Hi Ghostrider; I think you misunderstood me. What I was thinking is that if you bought the original units you could copy them yourself or pay someone like a fibreglass kit place to copy them for you. You could then go on to sell them for say half the price. Depending on what they cost to copy you could probably cover the cost of the initial purchase ($450-odd) and the cost of replicating them.

Come to think about it, if all four that you are buying are the same you could buy just one ($150'ish) and have thay one copied four times making it cheaper for you. Then any more that you have copied and sold would be profit.

I don't care about how much they are costing you etc. and hope that you don't get upset. I do reckon that this is a way to get you want you want for cheaper and make similar units available to others who think that what you are doing is flash (assuming that you don't mind other people having the same kit as you!)

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Ben

I think you'll find that copying one flare wouldn't do

Front and rear are different to suit the bodywork plus then possibly handed right and left.

Dennis provided he doesn't mind others having similar flares has the right to charge enough to cover his outlay and time IMHO.

Edited by R34
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Ghostrider; I think you misunderstood me. What I was thinking is that if you bought the original units you could copy them yourself or pay someone like a fibreglass kit place to copy them for you. You could then go on to sell them for say half the price. Depending on what they cost to copy you could probably cover the cost of the initial purchase ($450-odd) and the cost of replicating them.

Come to think about it, if all four that you are buying are the same you could buy just one ($150'ish) and have thay one copied four times making it cheaper for you. Then any more that you have copied and sold would be profit.

I don't care about how much they are costing you etc. and hope that you don't get upset. I do reckon that this is a way to get you want you want for cheaper and make similar units available to others who think that what you are doing is flash (assuming that you don't mind other people having the same kit as you!)

Exactly the plan!

Gotta start somewhere & all the flares I have seen have been grafted to suit with buckets of bog. These should be a fit up thing I'm hoping? And the R30 has a squareish rear wheel arch as opposed to the Z types that are nearly round.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...