Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally Gets New Doors, rear bar & Rims!

DTM RUSH 18x9.5 +15 & Federal 245/40R18

Last weekend painted all doors in/out, guards, mirrors, sideskirts and rear bar.

Bonnet, front bar & tailgate next, then roof and rear quarters.

Also got the PowerFC, 525cc & Z32 to fit and tune @ pits.

Busy Busy

Big thanks to new bro, Glenn :( Oh yeah, Finally got married! :worship:

post-58828-1252587773_thumb.jpgpost-58828-1252587870_thumb.jpg

post-58828-1252588033_thumb.jpgpost-58828-1252589964_thumb.jpg

Edited by RED513
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287461-the-rush-has-begun/
Share on other sites

Area you going to remove the side and hatch glass and front windscreen mould?

This cost me over $500 to get a windscreen guy to remove and replace the glas only :(

Plus another $300 for the front and rear moulds

Be careful removing the side glass. It is easy to damage the mould which is part of the glass. You can not buy the these moulds, you have to replace the glass as well. Approx $750 each form nissan.

I posted the part numbers for the front and rear moulds are in the parts section.

Fronts were in stock in melbourne warehouse, rear had to come from Japan. Only took 1 week to get after order.

When removing the roof rails, they are stuck down with double sided tape. Take your time not to bend them

Looks the good with those wheels

Area you going to remove the side and hatch glass and front windscreen mould?

This cost me over $500 to get a windscreen guy to remove and replace the glas only :)

Plus another $300 for the front and rear moulds

Be careful removing the side glass. It is easy to damage the mould which is part of the glass. You can not buy the these moulds, you have to replace the glass as well. Approx $750 each form nissan.

I posted the part numbers for the front and rear moulds are in the parts section.

Fronts were in stock in melbourne warehouse, rear had to come from Japan. Only took 1 week to get after order.

When removing the roof rails, they are stuck down with double sided tape. Take your time not to bend them

Looks the good with those wheels

Thanks & Very helpful info!

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels, Just wish the Volk GT-N Worked out! :nyaanyaa:

Still happy, needs to go down 20mm which will tuck the front in nicely :)

  • 1 month later...

Sorry for no updates, been heaps busy!!!

Front bar modified, repaired and resprayed!

Hks performer coilovers fitted and tested (Thanks Paul)!!

Dropped to 340mm all round, Full wheel align and balance!!!

Pics sooooon!

  • 2 weeks later...
Looking awesome :happy: How close is your canon to collecting a speed-hump @ 340mm?

Front bar = 120mm, Side skirts = 120mm, Exhaust @ diff = 100mm, Canon just touches on Gutter!

Needs a Radiator.......96'c!!!! Plus a set of Brembo's & Hks GT2835proS would be good!!!

Edited by RED513

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you flushed the initial fluid yet? It should look like a rainbow unicorn shat glitter into it. 2nd or 3rd fluid change is when you party.
    • all brand new unit from Tomei, fluid, bearings, etc. Tomei said they call it a 1.5 lsd because its 100 percent lock up under acceleration and 50 percent under deacceleration.  as I mentioned I used their fluid, install and their break-in procedure, (alot of figure 8's) but even when driving straight, or even slowly backing out of garage for first time, (at 2 mph) then driving to and from figure 8 parking lot, each tire in the rear would sporadically grab, skip, bounce, shutter and skip, shutter back a force I could feel causing clutch to slip then grab, at any speed. shaking entire car. I removed unit, since I put stock back in and all is fine, via process of elimination, its something with the lsd unit itself. I wasn't going to beat up the entire car more or change anything else for no reason as I had a feeling something in the lsd itself was wrong as everything was fine before this alone was installed and I rechecked over everything else after first time backing out I suspected an issue. I'll probably sadly already need new tires now just from trying to drive it 5 miles and performing the figure 8 break in. but if someone has any ideas I'm all ears 
    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
×
×
  • Create New...