Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally Gets New Doors, rear bar & Rims!

DTM RUSH 18x9.5 +15 & Federal 245/40R18

Last weekend painted all doors in/out, guards, mirrors, sideskirts and rear bar.

Bonnet, front bar & tailgate next, then roof and rear quarters.

Also got the PowerFC, 525cc & Z32 to fit and tune @ pits.

Busy Busy

Big thanks to new bro, Glenn :( Oh yeah, Finally got married! :worship:

post-58828-1252587773_thumb.jpgpost-58828-1252587870_thumb.jpg

post-58828-1252588033_thumb.jpgpost-58828-1252589964_thumb.jpg

Edited by RED513
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287461-the-rush-has-begun/
Share on other sites

Area you going to remove the side and hatch glass and front windscreen mould?

This cost me over $500 to get a windscreen guy to remove and replace the glas only :(

Plus another $300 for the front and rear moulds

Be careful removing the side glass. It is easy to damage the mould which is part of the glass. You can not buy the these moulds, you have to replace the glass as well. Approx $750 each form nissan.

I posted the part numbers for the front and rear moulds are in the parts section.

Fronts were in stock in melbourne warehouse, rear had to come from Japan. Only took 1 week to get after order.

When removing the roof rails, they are stuck down with double sided tape. Take your time not to bend them

Looks the good with those wheels

Area you going to remove the side and hatch glass and front windscreen mould?

This cost me over $500 to get a windscreen guy to remove and replace the glas only :)

Plus another $300 for the front and rear moulds

Be careful removing the side glass. It is easy to damage the mould which is part of the glass. You can not buy the these moulds, you have to replace the glass as well. Approx $750 each form nissan.

I posted the part numbers for the front and rear moulds are in the parts section.

Fronts were in stock in melbourne warehouse, rear had to come from Japan. Only took 1 week to get after order.

When removing the roof rails, they are stuck down with double sided tape. Take your time not to bend them

Looks the good with those wheels

Thanks & Very helpful info!

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels, Just wish the Volk GT-N Worked out! :nyaanyaa:

Still happy, needs to go down 20mm which will tuck the front in nicely :)

  • 1 month later...

Sorry for no updates, been heaps busy!!!

Front bar modified, repaired and resprayed!

Hks performer coilovers fitted and tested (Thanks Paul)!!

Dropped to 340mm all round, Full wheel align and balance!!!

Pics sooooon!

  • 2 weeks later...
Looking awesome :happy: How close is your canon to collecting a speed-hump @ 340mm?

Front bar = 120mm, Side skirts = 120mm, Exhaust @ diff = 100mm, Canon just touches on Gutter!

Needs a Radiator.......96'c!!!! Plus a set of Brembo's & Hks GT2835proS would be good!!!

Edited by RED513

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
    • If there's oil in with the clutch, I hope it finds its way out even if that hole has a cover/grommet 😛 I don't want oil near my cars clutch! 😛 Interested to hear the answer about covering it, I'm assuming a bung for a gearbox from another car that has a grommet to suit.
×
×
  • Create New...