Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dean, it sounds right. how close is the take off for the boost pressure to the turbo?

sounds like where you have the boost line coming, there is a bit of turbulance in the intercooler piping. This is a guess:) so dont hang me if I am wrong. but is based upon the fact that before you didnt have any probs, and if you have a good (unvarying) supply of boost pressure to the wastegate, it 'should' control it properly.

Try and get the boost pressure line from as close as possible to he compressor outlet - some turbos actually have the boost coming from the outlet before the compressed air leaves the turbo. either that or keep it away from pipe bends.

Did you just purely disconnect it? or did you feed it 12V (I read another post about someone feeding it 12V supposedly to keep it happy).

Is there a way to know whether its working or not? I guess the easiest way would be to keep an eye on the boost gauge and see if boost comes on in two stages...

You'd think that the eCU would know if the solenoid wasn't connected and report some error.

Well I had a stock boost setup. I removed the ECU signal to the solenoid and power the solenoid off the 12v ignition line. This enabled the solenoid to be open all the time and hence the car would boost to ~7psi as soon as possible instead of > 5000rpm.

If i was using a bleed valve I would not have to connect anything to the solenoid.

Steve: I take boost pressure from the rear of the plenum, which is where the standard feed is from. I think its somethin wrong with the bleeder, not the point of pressure. Could there be somethin wrong with the piping or cooler? When i accelerate i can feel a hesitation sometimes....

Pls help.

I can only suggest trying someone elses bleed valve, and check and double check every join on your pipework. Other than that, see if you can get a vacuum test done - to rule out any vacuum leaks.

Also, check the lines to the bleed valve and bleed to wastegate. I have some spare nice new Trust vacuum line that is yours if you want to give it a try. Or if you want to spend money, the Outlaw speed shop has some killer stuff - like the Jap line, not the soft stuff that is pretty common. It is pretty easy to damage, esp if it is the soft silicone type - not the good jap stuff.

Also, have you done the unichip thing yet?

I just changed all the hoses on the bleeder so it wouldnt be that, and the hoses is excellent quality.

There wouldnt be a loose connection in the pipes? cos the car idles fine and shows no leaks... Does that mean there isnt a leak?

Also im gettin the Unichip hopefully put in next week. Will see when my Cam gear gets here, cos i want to install and tune them both at the same time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...