Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today we will be datalogging and publicly reporting on the new Cobb Tuning upgrades to the GTR which we have been providing input for over the past month. The brainchild of John in the UK and Joe from Cobb, the new mapping system does away with Air Flow Load inferred Wastegate Duty Cycle, and converts the R35 Boost Control system over to an RPM vs Duty Cycle output curve. What this means -

Stable boost control without the big boost spikes on 'flat foot' gearshifts that haunt most GTR tunes (no good for engine or transmission)

The ability to hold more consistent and greater boost pressure in the top end of the rev range.

No need to change over wastegate actuators on the GTR to higher rated versions

No need to add aftermarket boost controllers etc.

An exhaust equipped GTR using this mapping with stock actuators and boost control hardware just went 10.8 at Santa Pod a few hours back :P

We will be performing some mapping and datalogging using our new Mainline AWD dyno to provide the most consistent and repeatable data that we can give back to both Cobb and present to the public before the software is released. Exciting times ahead for GTR owners, and obviously we are happy to be part of the professional testing and development team for Cobb ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288489-new-cobb-tuning-maps/
Share on other sites

This is interesting.

At a recent practice day (Oran Park) running an AP tune, i found my lap times actually went slightly backwards. Personally, i think it was due to the power coming on too strong, too quickly, turning the tyres and invoking power sapping traction control. I guess the solution is to drive with TC off, and anticipate wheelspin more delicately, however something that guarantees a better/smoother and more progressive application of power may just turn that situation around for me.

Edited by LSX-438

Linear power that doesnt upset the balance of the chassis has always been the key.

I have never been one much for a big midrange rush than a curve that falls flat on its face. Great for the odd squirt between the lights (if anyone actually does that kind of thing anymore) but no good for a genuine motorsport application :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...