Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, today my dad and I installed the following:

1. Stillen Catback exhaust - twin tube flow design & stainless steel

2. Stillen front and rear sway bars

A lot of elbow grease, WD40 was required....

Pics of install:

Sway Bar - Front

aDSC00283.jpg

aDSC00284.jpg

aDSC00287.jpg

Sway bar - Rear

aDSC00266.jpg

aDSC00267.jpg

aDSC00269.jpg

aDSC00251.jpg

Exhaust - Old

aDSC00243.jpg

aDSC00241.jpg

aDSC00246.jpg

aDSC00248.jpg

aDSC00261.jpg

aDSC00249.jpg

Exhaust Comparisons - Old vs New

aDSC00255.jpg

aDSC00257.jpg

aDSC00262.jpg

Exhaust - New

aDSC00274.jpg

aDSC00275.jpg

aDSC00276.jpg

aDSC00277.jpg

aDSC00281.jpg

aDSC00280.jpg

Final Product...

aDSC00288.jpg

aDSC00289.jpg

aDSC00290.jpg

aDSC00291.jpg

aDSC00292.jpg

Commentary:

1. despite the pricey amount (and super expensive shipping), I would happily pay to buy the Stillen exhaust again. It gives a slightly deeper drone at idle and is just as quiet as the OEM unit.

2. At full acceleration, the noise is not loud (unlike the many previous exhaust I have had on my other cars over the years)

3. The car feels more revvy and feels more powerful at full acceleration. Stillen claims it adds an additional 21 to 23 HPs...Obviously, I need to get it on a dyno if I wanted to prove it...

4. If you ask how come I didnt get a JDM exhaust, let me tell you a secret....Stillen are class leading when it comes to their products on Nissan 350z, G35s, Altimas....

Ok, after all that, I was going to install the Stillen front Strut Brace - but here's the problem....I have killed my strut tower nuts x 3 whilst trying to undo them. Can anyone suggest how I can get them removed??? They are the 3 nuts on the battery side where there ain't alot of room to move...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288782-my-stillen-exhaust-sway-bars/
Share on other sites

Nice work! Looks like your dad was doing all the work while you were taking photos :)

I've got the same Stillen strut brace and same problem as you have (strut tower nuts on the battery side). I will wait until my next scheduled service and get my mechanic to fit it.

The Stillen twin tips stick out a tad too much don't u think? Someones gonna trip over them one day or even worse get burnt lol.

2. use a hammer and a chisel to turn them

i have used both methods

yeah I had to do that when I rounded the nut holding my front strutbrace

had to take my car off the ramps, jack up the front and take the wheel off for more clearance, hammered the side of the nut so it kind of had an edge again and then chisel with mallet the little f^cker finally popped loose

think the chisel and hammer might be a bit awkward on the strut tower bolts as they kind of sit horizontal as opposed to vertical when I did my swaybars. def give the vicegrips a go, otherwise suck it up and get a local mechanic to take it off for you :ninja:

Nismo - I did a lot of the work also, it's just that there was no way for my dad to take pics of me under the car...

We tried the vice grip pliers for like 20 mins, but not enough clearance to get it to bit and turn (except for an upwards position - meaning no turning force)...

We tried WD40 for 1 hr...

We tried hammer and chisel for one of the nuts, and it was like butter...didn't do sh*t...

We tried hammering a Size 11 socket into it (was a size 12 nut)...no luck there and rounded the nut further...

I am so annoyed now..can't concentrate on anything, just thinking about those 3 bugger of nuts....

Yo-yo - yes, front sway bar nut was also a killer...took 20 mins per nut to undo...the secret is getting enough ground clearance to maximise the elbow/arm force...

RS73 will be taking a sound clip when I see him next....

so file two opposite sides of the nut to make them flat, then use a shifting spanner on them! easy!

also, all you need is leverage to undo tight bolts, buy a breaker bar, then put your trolley jack handle on the end of it if its not long enough. you dont need to get the car all that high up.

  • 4 weeks later...

Finally found a nut remover tool kit...wasn't cheap and set me back $120....

If you are after one of theses kits, don't bother going to Bunnings or the Auto Shops....You can only get them at the professional tool shops.

The nuts came off so easily with this tool....credits to the inventor!!!! It's such a simple design...might take a pic of it to show u guys wat the fuss is all about...

So today, it will be off to buy some replacement nuts, and put in my Stillen strut brace!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...