Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm looking at getting a nice sized cooler since the stockie is kinda pathetic.... Its measurements are 970 x 300 x 70...

My question for you is... am i going to be able to fit that behind the standard R33 Gts-t S2 standard front bar?

If yes then sweet :D otherwise, what bars does everybody recommend, I recently crashed the car so the front bar needs work anyways, so if i have to modify the standard one then thats no problems, just need to know soonish as ive had offeres on the standard bar if im going to get a new one :)

Here is a picture of it :)

hugeright.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28888-front-bar-cooler-size/
Share on other sites

sound slike someone is trying to sell you an ex truck cooler. Dont buy it. If it was a propper drag cooler it would be around 150 thick also. Bit unless u r pushing 900hp it would be useless anyway.

something around 600x300x70 will fit with a bit of cutting unless u have an aftermarket front bar.

have to understand that bigger AREN"T better, in most case, it is worse.. :thumbdwn:

Hey Dude;

i got my 600x300x90 into my r33 s1 typ M and it was a bit of a bitch. Had to mount it flush against the air radiator removing the original aircon thermo fan and built an entire new bonnet catch mounting bracket. Then i mounted two thermofans on the front of the cooler. You might get the 970 in if you are prepaired to hack away the entrie bumper suport brackets but then you have to watch out for the headlights and such. I say maybe but you better do a lot of measuring befor you start cutting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...