Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Cylinder For 32

tones

By tones,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tones Enthusiast

tones

Posted
Posted

just sat my 25/30 in my 32 and the intake manifold i've got wont fit with the clutch line where it is. The line on mine comes out of the bottom of the cylinder, if it come out the side would probably be fine( though couldn't hurt if the cylinder was slightly shorter). The picture on the just jap web site of the hcr32/cefiro one has the line coming out the side, can anyone tell me if it does? and what about the r33 cylinder? is it longer or shorter than the 32 and does the fluid line come out the side or bottom? would it fit the in 32 easily. will be running a 25 slave cylinder if that matters. Any info is much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289589-clutch-cylinder-for-32/
Share on other sites
Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted

I've had similar problems, but used a different plenum (CPC).

S14 and R31(aus) have the line out the side.

Pic is of r31 relocated higher.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30...ster-cleara.jpg

more pics here http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd81/30det/

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

R33 GTSt master cylinder is shorter than 32 and I think the line comes out the bottom (can check if needed).

I got one thinking my plenum wasn't going to clear (as matey had problems with his GREddy plenum) but my custom GTR plenum didn't foul.

tones Enthusiast

tones

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys. I'll mesure up and see if the r33 20mm shorter will work( i've got a 25 box so will keep master, slave the same as factory). Also checked a mates s13 and was same cylinder diameter (5/8) was shorter than mine and the line was coming out the side.

  • 2 months later...
RRR31 Rookie

RRR31

Posted
Posted

Thanks all ,i just did this works in a R31 aswell RB30DET with redrilled/elongated engine mount brackets holes drivers side by 15mm lower ,passenger bolt holes elongated by half a hole is all it would go.

I took turbo side engine mount bracket (4 bolts off) then plenum Greddy copy just fitted past clutch master cylinder from r33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...