Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

recently i have noticed that the front windscreen has been fogging up at the bottom in the center, even in the middle of the day, but its almost a steam like fog that moves around, gets bigger n smaller n moves around a little bit but generally in the centre of the windscreen.

this also started with almost a burning smell everytime i turn on the air conditioner/heater

now today the temperature gauge was reading high and i found out there was no coolent in the radiator so i filled that up and it doesnt appear to be leaking.

the steam is still evident and the smell is still evident

it almost smells like a burning oil smell.

anyone know what could be happening or have had this problem before, im really hoping someone can guide me in the right direction here.

p.s did a search found nothing :P

i got a bad feeling your heater radiator has a leak in it...

maybe just a small leak to cause steam but no drips..

only thing i can think to test this is drive around for a little while with the radiator cap loose so the system doesnt build up pressure and see if it still does it. dont drive like this for 2 long and you will probably need to bleed the cooling system again after.

dont know if this helps but give it a shot.

yeah sounds like you have a leak somwhere in the heater box and that is causing the smell, the fog and the overheating and loss of coolant.

first thing i would be doing is disconnecting the hoses that go into the cabin from the engine bay so that you don't loose any more water and damage the engine. then find the tutorial on how to remove the heater box and have a look for signs of a leak

yeah sounds like you have a leak somwhere in the heater box and that is causing the smell, the fog and the overheating and loss of coolant.

first thing i would be doing is disconnecting the hoses that go into the cabin from the engine bay so that you don't loose any more water and damage the engine. then find the tutorial on how to remove the heater box and have a look for signs of a leak

If i do keep losing water and just keep topping it up before it gets low i should be able to drive for a week or so yea?

i wouldnt baby it, as babying doesnt really change too much

i had a small leak in mine years ago, couple days later sitiing in peak hour morning traffic it burst and filled the cabin with steam lol was probably pretty funny to watch, but not cool for holding coolant.

really need to look at bypassing it quickly

quite easy to do, grab a set of pliers, and some steel pipe or the likes.

Disconnect the 2 pipes going into the passenger side of the firewall and then push the steel pipe into one of them and use the hose clamps that were originally used to clamp it, then connect the other pipe to the other end effectively bypassing the heater core,

I had this problem a little while ago, unfortunatly i was left with a nice wet patch in the passenger footwell!

Since bypassing the core i have no problems, and ill eventually get around to replacing it at some point, but i dont think i need the heater for the summer :whistling:

ok so found this

excellent tut on how to replace the core yourself

so i shall bypass is asap and then once ive got a free day will DIY it

heres the link for anyone who wants it, a very good read

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...80#entry4864480

I had this problem a little while ago, unfortunatly i was left with a nice wet patch in the passenger footwell!

yeah i just felt mine 10 minutes ago, also got it.

thanks everyone for your help, this is why i <3 SAU

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...