Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah man i get ya now , so is there any one out there that can tell me for sure that removing the bov will defanitly cause damage to my turbo ?

There will always be people out there that say it defiantly will and others will say defiantly wont.

IMO the cars come with a stock BOV for a reason so regardless of whether its damaging to the turbo ide just leave it on (plumb back or atmo your choice)

A mate of mine ran his to4z on his rb26 for over 2 years with no BOV and never had issues, it probably is bad for your turbo over the long run but we are probably talking a very long time!

but if it is a bush bearing turbo apparently the damage occurs much sooner

Even if its not doing damage you loose efficiency because of the back pressure on the turbo . . . .

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event.

Quoted from good old wikipedia :3some:

A mate of mine ran his to4z on his rb26 for over 2 years with no BOV and never had issues, it probably is bad for your turbo over the long run but we are probably talking a very long time!

but if it is a bush bearing turbo apparently the damage occurs much sooner

Zachary!

I will affect the life of your turbo, but no damage so that you will notice it. But if you were to look at it as that if you had a BOV then your turbo will last longer then if you didnt have one then yes damage occurs.

Lets say 200,000 klm turbo life with BOV. to

180,000 klm turbo life without BOV.

It's not something that can be documented effectively, and also chances are that something else would cause your turbo to shit itself before this time anyway, like oil contamination.

There will always be people out there that say it defiantly will and others will say defiantly wont.

IMO the cars come with a stock BOV for a reason so regardless of whether its damaging to the turbo ide just leave it on (plumb back or atmo your choice)

??

stock ca's dont come with bov's

stock fj's dont come with bov's

check this out http://fdowners.com/showthread.php?t=217

'But at the end of the day. We could turn this into a 5yr long thread debating whether or not u NEEEEED them.

compression surge is not healthy unless u live in vic and drive a VL ? and go to bell st maccers

i loled :)

yeah man i get ya now , so is there any one out there that can tell me for sure that removing the bov will defanitly cause damage to my turbo ?

yep, i wouldnt do it, especially on a brand new turbo - if it was the stock turbz and i was looking to upgrade in the near future i'd be more inclined to block it off

bov's are shit.. enough said.

and what turbo are you running?

won't affect turbo life noticeably. May affect turbo efficiency ie more lag. Does it really matter? All you need to know is if you have a BOV and want it to be legal make sure it is plumbed back into the intake. /End thread.

This is a very interesting topic and makes me feel like I've been living under a rock as I never new that you could run a turbo charged engine without a BOV. I've quite enjoyed reading this thread.

I see there is no definitive answer so one would have to conclude that if you think its right for your cars setup than so be it. Some people like black some people like white none are wrong or better than the other just a personal preference.

In my opinion a factory BOV setup is to make the cars 'nice to drive' with minimal engine bay noises. They may also help meet certain emission standards. And possibly aid in the re-spool of the turbo between gears how ever marginal the difference would be.

It would be interesting to know how many people are running 'NO' BOV with there factory turbo's and if they have experienced any problems and or failure?

As I am keen to try a 'NO' BOV setup on my factory Toyota Caldina GT-4. Also how much boost can safely be run on a factory turbo with 'NO' BOV? Is there any tuners who specialize in these setups?

Great thread guys I hope we can find some solid Pro's and Con's for both setups.

Maybe someone could start a poll to see haw many people out there run what setup?

This is a very interesting topic and makes me feel like I've been living under a rock as I never new that you could run a turbo charged engine without a BOV. I've quite enjoyed reading this thread.

I see there is no definitive answer so one would have to conclude that if you think its right for your cars setup than so be it. Some people like black some people like white none are wrong or better than the other just a personal preference.

In my opinion a factory BOV setup is to make the cars 'nice to drive' with minimal engine bay noises. They may also help meet certain emission standards. And possibly aid in the re-spool of the turbo between gears how ever marginal the difference would be.

It would be interesting to know how many people are running 'NO' BOV with there factory turbo's and if they have experienced any problems and or failure?

As I am keen to try a 'NO' BOV setup on my factory Toyota Caldina GT-4. Also how much boost can safely be run on a factory turbo with 'NO' BOV? Is there any tuners who specialize in these setups?

Great thread guys I hope we can find some solid Pro's and Con's for both setups.

Maybe someone could start a poll to see haw many people out there run what setup?

You can run as much boost as you usually would....running NO BOV should create less problems really.

White is better though :P

:D I think I'll leave that one alone...

You can run as much boost as you usually would....running NO BOV should create less problems really.

Cheers mate. I might give it a go soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...