Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All. i have a R34 RB25DE NEO and i want to install a pod filter but i got couple of questions.

1. My car is pretty much stock with a Fujitsubo exhaust system (legalis-R), will i gain power at all?

2. What sizes does Pod filter come in? I know that having one is illegal, so i was wondering if i can get one that can fit inside my original airbox? Has anyone done this?

3. If pod filter does come in difference size, will performance decrease if the pod filter is smaller?

4. If im hiding the pod filter in the airbox, does it defeat the purpose of having one over a hi-flow panel filter? ( i sort of want a bit of sound from the pod filter)

I guess if all doesnt work out, i might just go for a hi-flow panel filter.

Any help will be thankful

Edited by Aznbongsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/
Share on other sites

1). Umm, to gain power you need a heat shield and cold air intake, the exhaust wouldnt do anything the cat and extractors are all that needs to be done to NA's if you want value.

2). All range in sizes (length) Apexi are stubby if your after a small one. If your a P' plater its "illegal" but i have had every cop that is not a highway patrol fine with it. Reason being NSW ask for the pod filter to be enclosed in a heat shield too make it legal for street use. The cops see it like that and are fine but the highway patrol just say take it off and then drive away. Yes people do put pod filter in there stock airboxes.

3). No, not necessarily. you could have filter paper wrapped around your intake hole and it would still change how much air is being taken in.

4). Yes, if you make yourself a heatshield and cold air intake with the pod in it and had the stock airbox and highflow panel you would be looking at the same setup for a NA. There isn't enough induction to create an actual strain on how much air flows through the filter on the NA. Thats why turbos and pod filters will atleast make there difference, you wont get induction sounds for it. If my foot is flat to the floor and i get to 5000rpm i can hear a sucking that sounds pretty weak. Id compare it to like 10% the induction volume of a turbo

To be honest, it will have no performance difference. Its up to you if you like the stock look or a pod filter look.

Edited by central coast person
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859408
Share on other sites

1). Umm, to gain power you need a heat shield and cold air intake, the exhaust wouldnt do anything the cat and extractors are all that needs to be done to NA's if you want value.

2). All range in sizes (length) Apexi are stubby if your after a small one. If your a P' plater its "illegal" but i have had every cop that is not a highway patrol fine with it. Reason being NSW ask for the pod filter to be enclosed in a heat shield too make it legal for street use. The cops see it like that and are fine but the highway patrol just say take it off and then drive away. Yes people do put pod filter in there stock airboxes.

3). No, not necessarily. you could have filter paper wrapped around your intake hole and it would still change how much air is being taken in.

4). Yes, if you make yourself a heatshield and cold air intake with the pod in it and had the stock airbox and highflow panel you would be looking at the same setup for a NA. There isn't enough induction to create an actual strain on how much air flows through the filter on the NA. Thats why turbos and pod filters will atleast make there difference, you wont get induction sounds for it. If my foot is flat to the floor and i get to 5000rpm i can hear a sucking that sounds pretty weak. Id compare it to like 10% the induction volume of a turbo

To be honest, it will have no performance difference. Its up to you if you like the stock look or a pod filter look.

Dam, thanks man. perfect answers i wanted to know.

I think ill just pass on this one, Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859414
Share on other sites

K&N Panel in the box would be your best bet. That's what I done till I had my conversion done, and even then there's panel filters that still flow very well for that application.

As Andrew said, they really need to be shielded from the heat soak in the engine bay. Stick with a high flow panel in the box and it will go unnonticed and you won't compromise the small gains to be had.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859559
Share on other sites

K&N Panel in the box would be your best bet. That's what I done till I had my conversion done, and even then there's panel filters that still flow very well for that application.

As Andrew said, they really need to be shielded from the heat soak in the engine bay. Stick with a high flow panel in the box and it will go unnonticed and you won't compromise the small gains to be had.

Hey Thanks for the tip. I notice that you turbo your DE. How much does that roughly set you back? im thinking of doing that after i get off my p's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859673
Share on other sites

A little or a lot.

I used a misx of 2nd hand and new parts.. biggest killer in costs is the labour and tuning! I've lost track of costs now, they always get added to, whether its an EBC and tune, rebuilding a half dead gearbox, or just throwing in some gauges to see how hot my oil is actually getting and that I probably should consider the cost of an oil cooler in summer. really allow between 3k-5k.

Also consider that the brakes on an R34 25GT Sedan (not the GTV) are piss poor. 280mm front discs and 265mm rear discs with 2 and 1 pot calipers is really a joke so factor in a brake upgrade to something like R33 GTSt brakes, and custom lines to suit.

You'd be best getting sorting out things like suspension, sway bars, tyres, brakes etc.. before throwin on a turbo. if you've already done those things, then start saving and way up the balance between an engine swap and a conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859765
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...