Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help R33 Z32 Ecu Troubles :(

hybriduno
 Share

Recommended Posts

hybriduno Newbie

hybriduno

Posted
Posted

hi all thanks for reading!

last night i but a z32 ecu on my r33 gtst, i followed these instructions.

R33 pin 19 to Z32 pin 34

R33 pin 105 to Z32 pin 110

R33 pin 110 to Z32 pin 105

R33 pin 112 to Z32 pin 114

R33 pin 114 to Z32 pin 112

R33 pin 57: cut

Z32 pins 29+55 :<<<i had no wire in 55 so i made one.

Z32 pin 33 cut (exhaust temp light)

i have installed a romavale eprom in the z32 ecu and installed a z32 base map with r33 map inside given to me by nistune.

the car strikes up but its very lumpy and pumping in huge amounts of fuel. i checked my wiring and i cant see anything wrong

i even burnt another eprom and its still the same?

even if i remove the afm the car is just the same and i have a z32 afm and r33 .

any help would be great guys thank you :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290458-please-help-r33-z32-ecu-troubles/
Share on other sites
Luciano Veteran

Luciano

Posted
Posted

Seeing as you aren't just installing a direct replacement ecu, i'd put it all back together with the std ECU and AFM, and give it to a professional.

But if you're hard headed like me, and wont give up that easily;

re-check all your wiring, and make sure all the connections have been properly made.

This caught me out when i replaced my ecu- there was loosely spliced wiring from gadgets installed by a previous owner - and i accidentally disconnected one of the wires without noticing, which caused similar engine behaviour to what you are having.

Check your afm + its wiring, make sure that has been connected properly also.

Make sure the ecu loom is plugged in firmly too - do the bolt up as much as you can. If you dont do it up tightly, the loom can move slighty, and the engine will splutter and shut itself off.

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted
wtf did you put that in for??? why dont you just buy an aftermarket engine management system like normal people do?

Because Nistune is better than any after market ECU within its price range(Actually quadruple the price range?) And trust me a lot of normal people chip the stock ECU

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted

Now for something helpfull. What AFM are you using and what injectors? Was the chip you put in setup for z32 equipment as far as the K Value? (In other words is the tune expecting a Z32 AFM to be connected and different sized injectors?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Satwinder
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Satwinder · Posted

      Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...