Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

In my R33 Gtst I have an RB25/30 and I'm going to need to massage the firewall a little to fit the rear cylinder head oil drain fitting that I am using. Has anyone done this before that can share their experiences? Is there much behind the firewall in this position keeping in mind with the 3litre block its a 25mm or so higher than standard?. Its positioned in the rear top welsh plug spot that sits between the cams. (see sample pic)

Everyone's thoughts are welcome.

Cheers

Steve

post-1044-1254804816_thumb.jpg

hammer

only real option without taking the dash out completely to section the area and weld in a new piece. You cant introduce too much heat either as there is the firewall insulation on the inside.

hammer

only real option without taking the dash out completely to section the area and weld in a new piece. You cant introduce too much heat either as there is the firewall insulation on the inside.

Thanks

Yeah, thats the plan as it stands, but I suppose I trying to find out how much room I can make before I damage whatever is behind it.....

you will probably have less than an inch - just cant recall

have a look for the heater core DIY threads, should have pics of dash out as the only bits in that area is the heater/blower box

you will probably have less than an inch - just cant recall

have a look for the heater core DIY threads, should have pics of dash out as the only bits in that area is the heater/blower box

Thanks again, will look them up! I know I saved them as I need to do the heater solenoid when I can get the time. Shame your not in Melb, I have a fair bit of powder coating to be down once I finish installing the engine and redo all the ic pipes. I also need the cam covers done.

Cheers

there is always AUSpost if you cant get what you need locally :)

Biggest thing to what for is the mounting points for the heater units, there are a couple of mounts up there, but i cant recall exactly where.

heater_unit.jpg

there is always AUSpost if you cant get what you need locally :P

Biggest thing to what for is the mounting points for the heater units, there are a couple of mounts up there, but i cant recall exactly where.

heater_unit.jpg

Ah, thats the pic. Thanks

Anyone else "massaged" their firewall?

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for posting, your engine bay looks tops. I'm fairly sure you posted the wrong video though, I think you were supposed to upload the one from your "private test road" where it's banging off the limiter with the gate open?
    • This is something to be careful of. I did a bit of digging on the NM35, as I spend a lot of time on near brand new cars and CANBus related stuff, which uses the same "OBD2" plug for a fair chunk of making my life easy. The NM35, does NOT support OBD2. The data pin is actually on Pin3, which is a manufacturer specific pin, and requires Consult3 to connect to the NM35. Your low voltage, is either because the NM35 doesn't have 12V to the constant power pin on the J1962 (OBD2) connector, OR, it is attempting the standard comms, (CanBus, K Line, etc) and can't see any voltage on those pins. Some people have had success accessing SOME data from the vehicle on OBD2 specification, using a module that supports KPW. My assumption, like Duncan has stated, it will likely actually be JOBD, where there is some cross over with the OBD2 and JOBD standards. Note, lots of "OBD2" dongles, do NOT support KPW, which is what you need for a lot of Japanese vehicles of this era (And even up until recent years!), EG, Subaru, Suzuki, etc.    The end of this thread is probably worth a read, as some people did find a way to get a display up in the NM35 recently, looks like someone implemented all the stuff needed to make it work. (The right protocols).  
    • Depending on the purpose of the car, and how much more fabbing you want to do, and what clearances you have, you could look to raise the motor, which will raise the front diff up. Likely would mean altering the chassis rails etc etc, hence the more fab work you'd need to do. However, this can create issues, not just in clearance with everything fitting under the bonnet, but you've also raised a LOT of weight up in the car, and this will DEFINITELY alter handling characteristics (But, so will how much weight you've already added to the front end). You'll also have to deal with the fact the gearbox to rear diff is now out of alignment too for the tail shaft, and alter the angle of the diff, or deal with a bit of potential vibration. Raising the motor an inch up, is effectively the same as making the whole car sit higher by not lowering it as far. So one inch higher motor, theoretically means you can drop the car an extra inch lower, and maintain the same angles in the CVs. Again, depends on the purpose of the car. If it's a just cruiser on the street car, maybe won't be an issue. If it's meant to be a time attack car, I can see you not wanting to raise the motor. This is just for you to ponder as an idea.
    • Have you not seen geospy.ai? It can now give GPS co ords to within a metre from a photo, even if it's a random photo you take inside. Supposedly at the moment only the government/law enforcement has access to that... Supposedly...
    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
×
×
  • Create New...