Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day people I'm new here but have been using alot of the info from here whilst building my Rb30 and nutting out the problems you always end up with.

I'll fill you in with some background info, the car is a 73 Datsun 240Z, motor is an Rb30E out of a VL with all new standard gear except for a ported cyl head and N1 oil pump.

Most of you will have read enough after hearing the oil pump is an N1 as I too read disturbing things about these after I purchased it.

The reason for going N1 was because I want to fit twin turbos later on to make an Rb30E+TT and thought the N1 would be a good match being high volume and high pressure.

The problem is on first start up the oil pressure went straight off the stock 240Z oil pressure gauge which goes to 140psi, now I didn't like it much but let the engine warm up to see if the pressure would drop as the oil thinned, It did drop to about 50psi at idle but as soon as revved above 2000rpm it's back off the scale (over 140psi).

After playing with a thinner oil (nulon 10w40 which gave 30psi at idle when warm and off scale at 3000rpm) and installing a mechanical workshop gauge straight into the pressure sender hole with the same results I thought it was time to pull the oil pressure relief valve out to have a look, the oil relief piston (valve) slid out beautifully so it couldn't have been jammed shut.

I did notice the spring was very long and stiff (insert joke here) so I ordered genuine nissan spring, piston, and nut.

Once I received the new bits I installed them, added some penrite run in oil and started it, oil pressure sat on 90psi for about 5 mins, then slowly dropped off to around 25psi at idle once warm, I gave it a few good revs and pressure wouldn't go over 90psi, I thought perfect....but no.

After about 10 mins when revved oil pressure slowly crept back up and then went off the scale again, then every time it was revved about 3000rpm pressure was off the scale.

So now I'm stumped, why would it creep back up? why did it maintain the 30psi at idle and 90psi at revs for only 10 mins? Is the pump just putting out too much oil and even the relief valve fully open can't bypass enough?

Any ideas welcome no matter how out there they are.

This is a fresh engine with only the runs I have detailed, no mods to oil passages, no restrictors, it does have a modified oil pickup for rear sump but basically just stock with an N1 oil pump.

Sorry about the novel, better than getting asked heaps of questions though.

Cheers.

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290934-excessive-oil-pressureon-rb30e/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The latest plan is to take I little bit of size out of the piston incase it's expanding once the oil warms up and getting stuck in the bore, will update again once this is done and engine has been run again to see if theres any change.

  • 2 weeks later...

there is a posibility that that as the rb30 doesnt have oil squirters under the pistons it creates too much pressure? if u think how much flow 6 oil sqirters would use like in a rb20-25 and 26... just a possibility???

all the rb25/30's iv biult have had more oil pressure than realy needed but if u put an rb30 standard pump on a rb30 it works perfect as with putting a 25 pump on a 25 and likewise with a 26...

just an idea that iv come up with from my expereance..

let me know what u think?

mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...