Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some people buy these things off ebay, right? anyone had any experience buying those little manual boost controllers that you screw to adjust?

I'm not sure if there's any shops you can walk into to buy them locally in perth. or if there are any online mod shops that you can buy them from. would you just buy from ebay?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...ntr-t73375.html

you can get that boost controller off ebay look for turbotech

i personally just went to xspeed and bought a turbosmart one, then i lost that one so i bought another 2nd hand off this forum...

also my mate saw your car and took a pic of your license plate at murdoch uni i think it was lol

i personally just went to xspeed and bought a turbosmart one

also my mate saw your car and took a pic of your license plate at murdoch uni i think it was lol

oh? how much do xspeed sell them for?

lul...i love how my plates interest people :D yeh...i've been cycling to work this week to save money though. (pity i've been cruising every night with friends XD ...eek. huge petrol bill.) My car won't be seen at murdoch so often now ^_^

lol. i called xspeed and asked, and they are like...for an r33, don't use a manual one. you'll blow it up. spikes n stuff, get an electronic one. new HKS for $650, with install and dyno tune $800 all up.

heh... =_= the turbo tech doesn't spike you say? if enough people tell me xspeed is talkin crap, i'll go for the turbo tech.

of course i realise you need to be careful while setting ur boost on a manual. start at zero, and do quarter turns at a time, etc.

Turbosmart Tee's are fine, I've sold over 20 and all have been great these are $100. If you got some extra coin the Profec B's are $475. I've got a few here if you want let me know.

What you pay for is what you get in the car game, Ebay gear might be ok, I decided not to sell those style of MBC's because I did not want phone calls of blown motors. I'd go for the trusted products with support.

Edited by monga

No offense monga, but I reckon turbosmart bleed valves are rubbish, same with dual stage and electronic ones from them. Its Australian product which isn't as good as the Jap stuff. The turbosmart ones run on bleeding off a certain amount of pressure to make ur wastegate feel less pressure, hence open later, hence make boost. This means the amount of air will be different in 1st to 4th gear, cold nights, hot days. So it can creep and spike hard.

The ball and spring ones have the spring to minimize pressure being bleed off unnecessarily and the adjustment is quite good. They are dirt cheap being and simple. For under 30$ to ur door they work a treat. Had a GFB manual, Turbosmart manual and turbotech manual, AEM electronic. Turbotech was the best by far for manual ones.

In regard to a workshop telling you to electronic. Of course electronic is best, but its expensive and they make a profit so they will advise you to buy one. I have mates with EBC's which still spike and creep, so be careful either way.

If you are bumping boost up by 3-6 psi then the turbotech is best money for value and more reliable than bleed ones like GFB and turbosmart.

There is a how-to thread about getting a R33 GTST to run 9psi the whole time instead of 6 psi then 9 later in rev range. Simple earthing or similar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
×
×
  • Create New...