Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just need help with one thing (sorry for being a newb) but i'm trying to find a hose to connect to my boost controller, it's that hose that's meant to come off the stock intercooler. thing is i have an fmic installed and there's no hose that comes off from it, any ideas which hose i can tpiece it off to connect to the boost controller?

*pic of which hose would be a great deal of help.

-thanks

you can tee it into the hose to the bov (hook it in using a T piece and a second piece of hose and not just stick the controller in the middle of the hose) but that isn't ideal. the best way is to get a nipple installed into the cooler piping, preferably on the pipe from the turbo to the cooler.

did you just install the cooler, or was it on there when you got the car? if it was already on there, find where the wastegate is currently getting it's pressure reading from (follow the hose from the wastegate back to where it joins either the cooler piping or the plenum) and put your controller in there

you can tee it into the hose to the bov (hook it in using a T piece and a second piece of hose and not just stick the controller in the middle of the hose) but that isn't ideal. the best way is to get a nipple installed into the cooler piping, preferably on the pipe from the turbo to the cooler.

did you just install the cooler, or was it on there when you got the car? if it was already on there, find where the wastegate is currently getting it's pressure reading from (follow the hose from the wastegate back to where it joins either the cooler piping or the plenum) and put your controller in there

yeah the cooler was already there when i got my car, that's what i tried before (t-piecing the hose for the bov) the problem was it was overboosting so i was thinking that it was the wrong connection, what i've read so far is that the best connection is the compressor housing, can't really see with the heat shield being there, i've also read somewhere that you don't have to take the heat shield off to connect it, can you confirm that for me?

-thanks.

the r33 has no nipple on the turbo as far as i know (i have never seen one and i have pulled a stock turbo off) but i have seen people put them into the stock turbo (also some other turbos come with them fitted from factory). however i would just have one fitted to the cooler pipe that runs from the turbo to the cooler. when i first put on my front mount i was using the hose from the plenum to the bov and had spiking issues. then i put a nipple in the "hot pipe" as i refer to it and never had any issues with boost spiking again (well at least any that weren't caused by a faulty controller)

the r33 has no nipple on the turbo as far as i know (i have never seen one and i have pulled a stock turbo off) but i have seen people put them into the stock turbo (also some other turbos come with them fitted from factory). however i would just have one fitted to the cooler pipe that runs from the turbo to the cooler. when i first put on my front mount i was using the hose from the plenum to the bov and had spiking issues. then i put a nipple in the "hot pipe" as i refer to it and never had any issues with boost spiking again (well at least any that weren't caused by a faulty controller)

sweet thanks for that, will try it this weekend. A friend suggested that, was just seeing if there were any other alternatives but from the sound of your setup should be sweet.

-thanks

  • 1 month later...

I drilled a hole in the side of the fmic piping, and then tapped a hole for the nipple to screw into. Works fine for me.

@mad082, you mentioned that its preferable to screw it into the pipe between the turbo and the intercooler. I did it in the pipe from the fmic to the engine. What exactly are the downsides to how i did it? I only picked where i did because i figured it would be a more accurate gauge of the pressure going into the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...