Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

sorry if i've posted in the wrong section..

Just looking for some advice on buying a r33 type II 1996. Got an inspection done today and whilst im not a mechanic, this skyline seems to be the better of them all that i've had inspected. Attached the pdf above (not virused :devil: )

It doesnt bother me about the small things like the wiper blades, paint, body kit etc..

Appreciate any advice on whether i should buy or not. Also if i was to fix the major problems how much would it set me back?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292240-just-got-inspection-done/
Share on other sites

A lot of little things add up to a big problem.

If you were mechanically minded and able to do the work yourself then it may be worth getting depending on the price.

If you weren't capable, then I would suggest no. The oil leaks alone in the engine bay may require a lot of work and could be costly.

There are a lot of 33's out there that you should be able to get in better condition than this one.

Be patient, and don't rush into something that you may regret.

We're talking about thousands of dollars to repair the items listed. Take into account that with the condition of the engine oil, clutch/brake fluids, and coolant, I would suggest that the vehicle has been poorly serviced and I wouldn't trust it as far as I could spit. I would even venture to guess that the 100,000 major service has not been completed.

There's also quite a few defectable issues so you'll be driving around with a yellow sticker time bomb.

This link (http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/NISSA...n=All%20Regions) shows that the market price for them is about $13,000.00.

I reckon that the owner won't drop his/her price because the next person who comes along will take it at the asking price if they are not aware of all the issues.

Seriously, I would wait for the next one.

cheers for the feedback,

spoken to a few mechanically minded people, they said obviously its gonna have a few problems since its 13 odd years old.

they said the most concerning thing is the rear suspension making a knocking noise, more than likely something to do with the hicas. A good service / tune will fix a fair few things that are wrong i.e coolants, oils, adjusting the clutch, bulbs, etc.. The rust im not too worried about as i can do that all myself..

They also said that whilst racq does do a good job they tend to go overkill on imports to cover their reputation / complaints post purchase.

Was thinking of importing which will cost me a lot more and even still no gauruntee that i wouldnt have to spend more once it gets on the road.

mmm, have been looking for a good few months now, inspected a dozen cars (have spent so much just getting cars looked at) this one was a lot better than the others..

not sure what u mean by original? its stock apart from exhaust. I think finding an import with log books is like finding a needle in a haystack

Records from when first imported, or at least proof of servicing. Original meaning no aftermarket suspension or exhaust. Both can damage car.

Maybe bring someone with you who knows a bit about cars so you don't bother inspecting crap ones.

Also, the report defects the brakes but I can't see why.

It's no good buying a car like this where you'll be spending thousands just to get it back up to scratch and to the condition that you'd be happy with. Seems like there's soo many problems, the amount of money

Think about this way: spend $10k on a car like this and pay about $4000 (if not more) to get it up to road worthiness and mechanically A1, plus future problems from a neglected car. Totalling $14000 to get it on the road.

OR spend $13k on a good condition, well looked after example which you can drive and start modifying straight away if you want you can also get a major service done for peace of mind.

Another suggestion is to ask a well known workshop from your area to inspect the cars you

At the end of the day everyone here is speaking from experience and their friends experiences, and suggest you should just wait and a good condition one will come up eventually.

Hope this helps

You need to start looking interstate if you can't find anything locally. Seriously, these days you can afford to do it because the cost of airfares is so cheap. Just another option, you can also find dealers that include RAC checks.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...