Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is 2 pairs of Ichiba Wheel Spacers

IchibaspacersV2.jpg

Description:

Version II wheel spacers are made from Aluminum/Magnesium alloy. They are incredibly strong and very lightweight. Each wheel spacers are two pieces design with pressed studs. Now it's time to bolt-on without any swap studs hassles. These are hubcentric spacers that is specifically made to each vehicle; will fitted on your vehicle's original hub perfectly without any gap. Wheel spacers move the wheel out from the hub, effectively widening the stance of the vehicle and lowering its roll center. This simple modification increases lateral stability, which in turn provides improved handling & greater safety.

Spec:

Bolt Pattern: 5/114.3

Center Bore: 66.2

Thread: 12x1.25

Note:

Sold as two pair (4pcs) with 20pcs nuts

bought them new from US for $380 2 pairs, and only used for 2 weeks before my new rims arrived. so basically it's new.

looking for $330

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293551-fs-4-x-ichiba-wheel-spacers/
Share on other sites

ok ill take some photos 2day

it looks like new so i thought i just couldnt b bother

ill do it upload some pics today

Thanks don't forget to say what car you had them fitted to and to rims too. Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...