Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Clearing out the parts collection.

Wheels

1. 17x9.5 +23 (x3) Jap wheels. 2 come with decent tyres, and the third has no tyre. Great for skids. 5x114.3

th_17x9523_2.jpg

th_17x9523_1.jpg

$275 for the lot

2. Modena Wheels. Front 17x8.5 (+35), Rear 17x9.5 (+38). Various gutter marks and one front has a decent hit, so basically 3 wheels. Rears have decent set of skid tyres. No tyres on front. Great for skids. 5x114.3

th_modena.jpg

th_modena_f.jpg

th_modena_r.jpg

$300 the lot

3. Keichii 17x8 (+32) 17x9 (+38). 5x114.3. Pretty good condition. Nice and lightweight. A few chips here and there. Skid tyres on the 8's. As pictured

th_Keichii1-medium.jpg

th_Keichii2-medium.jpg

th_Keichii3-medium.jpg

th_Keichii4-medium.jpg

$600 the set

4. Sparco Mesh 17x8 (+32), 17x9 (+38). Multistud 4x114.3 and 5x114.3. Come with very worn Dunlop dz03. Centre caps are included

th_sparco2-medium.jpg

th_sparco3-medium.jpg

th_sparco4-medium.jpg

th_sparco5-medium.jpg

$600 for the set

5. Desmond Jap rims. 17x8 (+35), 17x9 (+38). 5x114.3. All in good condition. Tyres not included

th_desmond_r.jpg

th_desmond_fr2.jpg

$900

6. Sparco 5 spoke. 17x9 (+20) all round. Come with 245/45/17 nankangs with decent tread. Also come with wheel nuts

th_sparco_gold_1.jpg

th_sparco_gold_2.jpg

$800

Steering Wheels

Note none come with boss kit

1. Nardi Deep corn. 80mm dish. perfect condition $275

th_nardi1.jpg

2. Momo race. Excellent condition $180

th_momorace.jpg

3. Another momo wheel. Unknown model $120

th_momo.jpg

4. White pimp dish wheel. With bullet horn button. Pick up the bitches with this one $140

th_whitewheel1-large.jpg

th_whitewheel2-large.jpg

Seats

1. Bride ergo 1. Usual wear marks. Comes with bride superlow rail suit s13/14/15 $450

th_bride1.jpg

2. Buddy Club fixed back. Large. Near new condition. With universal rail

$450

th_buddyclub1.jpg

th_buddyclub2.jpg

3. Cobra reclinable seat. No rips. Needs a clean. Excellent otherwise. $180

th_cobra.jpg

BOV's

1. Turbosmart type 2 $125

2. Turbosmart plumb-back $175

3. Trust Type R $220

4. Turbo-XS blumb-back $100

th_Bovs.jpg

Other crap

Stainless steel manifold suit SR20DET (x3). No cracks $100each

th_newengineparts1.jpg

Pivot 80mm mechanical boost guage. $120

th_pivotboost1.jpg

Blitz Uras power meter. $140

th_powermeter1.jpg

Blitz RVIT. Plugs into consult port. $200

th_rvit1.jpg

Cometic metal headgaskets suit SR. New $120 each

ARP Head Studs suit SR. New. $160

HKS Valve springs suit SR. New. $175

th_newengineparts1.jpg

All stuff in Campbelltown Sydney. All timewasters and lowballers will be completely ignored

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...