Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Reeeeall stupid qusetion and i cant find it no where

What is the exact sparking mesurement for the spark plugs (RB20DET)

Iv found n bn told 1.0mm

1.1mm

0.08mm

I had them all at 1.0mm and it was missing as i was coming on boost fairly mild

took them out made them bit smaller roughly 0.9mm and its running a hell of a lot better now top end high revs is missing???

Sooo im thinking its smaller again!

Just so i dont have to take it apart again, What u guys reckon

Cheers

Edited by MYCEF3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293895-gapping-point-spark-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Cheers KISIN! Yeah i found that, but the answer that person gave "Ummmmmm i reckon..... roughly 0.08mm" (WOW convincing much)

Which yeah i wanted to ask yous n find out EXACTALLY the messurement

0.8 not .08 sorry typeo!!

and yeh standard for RB25s as well.

Hahah thats what i ment as well!

0.08... That would be a very tight spark :P (haha... tight.... :thumbsup: )

Edited by MYCEF3

With an N/A engine 1.1 is the standard and that is what most plugs are out of the box.

With a force inducted car you get away with what you can but most people will run around the 0.8 mark.

Also be careful with platinum plugs (which i will never use unless i own a car which is a bitch to change plugs) not to touch the electrode as the platinum coating is only a few microns thick and if you push a screw driver in their trying to gap a plug you will ruin it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...