Jump to content
SAU Community

Crank/bearing Questions

James_03

By James_03,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Recently I pulled the bottom end off my rb30dett only to find the bearing shells looking like shit. Basically they were polished on certain parts of the bearing. I wasn't too sure if this was normal or not (suspected not) so I took the crank out and took it to a local engine rebuilder for an opinion.

Basically the guy went thru and measured all the journals etc, and then told me it was just out of minimum standard tolerance. They told me I could "probably get away with it", but I opted to not "probably get away with it" and have it done right.

Ok so they then recommend having the crank ground then a linish, and told me to get 10/10 bearings? whatever the fck that means. I assume 0.25 o/size but can anyone confirm?

Now my other question, I asked them if they needed the block/rods brought in as well and they said no?

So are they skipping something here? I want it done right this time so please let me know if they should be checking anyting on the block/rods before I re-fit the crank with o/size bearings.

Cheers.

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294032-crankbearing-questions/
Share on other sites
r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

0.25mm is 10 thou. Most shops work in imperial, so they refer to things in thou.

They should be checking the block for tunnel straightness, the big ends of the rods and small ends for that matter. Should get them to check everything regardless of what they said, or goto a different workshop.

Were the big end bearings polished, or mains?

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
0.25mm is 10 thou. Most shops work in imperial, so they refer to things in thou.

They should be checking the block for tunnel straightness, the big ends of the rods and small ends for that matter. Should get them to check everything regardless of what they said, or goto a different workshop.

Were the big end bearings polished, or mains?

Yeah it was the mains that were bad.

The motor has done next to no k's at all, so I think it was simply linished then chucked back in out of spec, *sigh*.

Any recommendations on bearings? It had King's in it, thinking of going ACL racing this time. Ill take the block/rods back in and request that they check it regardless.

Cheers.

Edited by James_03
Ziller Rising Star

Ziller

Posted
Posted
Yeah it was the mains that were bad.

The motor has done next to no k's at all, so I think it was simply linished then chucked back in out of spec, *sigh*.

Any recommendations on bearings? It had King's in it, thinking of going ACL racing this time. Ill take the block/rods back in and request that they check it regardless.

Cheers.

This is not sounding good already, do some research and go to a known RB26 engine builder and tuner in your state?, it will save you all round.

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This is not sounding good already, do some research and go to a known RB26 engine builder and tuner in your state?, it will save you all round.

Yeah true.

I was actually thinking of doing that, they have already started on the crank so can't get out of that now. What I might do is take the block/crank elsewhere again once I get it back.

Thanks all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Things are happening.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • Pac
      The New Official S A U - N S W Spotted Thread

      By Pac · Posted

      I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • Komdotkom
      NC MX5

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...