Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what is your wheel widths and offsets?

any scrubbing with the spacers fitted?

Wheels are 9 inches wide and +30 offset

Only just put the front spacers on and have taken the ride for a burn yet, so I'm not sure.

  • 1 month later...

I had heaps of hassles with other aussie brands.

I found that it was easier to fit stagea specific wagon springs.

These items from Tein is what I used, also replaced the rear sway bar with a GTR one.

SKN78-S1B00 Nissan Stagea WGNC34 - Soft - F3.1 R3.8 (kg/mm).

These were for a S1 also available for S2 manual and tiptronic.

Note if you have a few more bucks coilovers or "Sydneykid's" setup with bilsteins is the way to go, it also pays to have a good offset instead of spacers.

Hope this helps.

Edited by dirtyRS4

The choice of spring rates has been discussed a fair bit in the suspension thread. The best Stag-specific 'upgrade' for tired stock springs is the Nismo S-Tune or TEIN as listed above (I've got S-Tune). There have been tales of 'not recommended' from Kings regarding using other models' springs in the rear (due to the potential loading), and then there's the coil-over kits you can get that are rated at 8+kg/mm which is damn stiff for a road car (M35's excepted).

Don't be too scared to ask the question regarding spring rates before you buy. Having the car look better (and they do) by lowering it 30mm is a waste of time if you get spat out of a corner backwards when you put 300kg of gear in the back...

I'm very happy with the S-Tune gear (Nismo badged Bilstein shocks w/circlip adjustment), but I'm sure a fresh set of stock springs and shocks would have made a big difference too!

been waiting a while haha.

going with them though, pretty good price

i just installed a set of these, haven't played with the damper setting much but the ride is very good. i've set the damper to half way. the spring rates are 8kg front and 6kg rears, even though they are heavier spring rates than stock i think it makes the ride much better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...