Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know the earlier models (R32 & R33) GTS can use the greddy plenum but on the R34 GT is completely different to the GTT.

has anyone ever attempted to fit a greddy plenum to a R34 GT RB25DE head?

if so, was it a direct fit & if not, what problems did you encounter?

as a r34 owner, you would all agree that the head design is a pain in the ass to do spark plug changes and overall makes the engine bay look so messy.

any help much appreciated :(

pics/links would be very helpful.

i've searched and only return results for R34 GTT & R33/32.

Trent from status, perhaps you may be able to shed some light on this.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294132-greddy-plenum-on-a-r34-rb25de-head/
Share on other sites

The head stud pattern is the same so it would bolt up just like a r33 rb25.

The only problem i see is that:

1. The manifold is designed for side feed injectors and you would need to run a fuel rail to suit top feed as above, easily fixed with same spacers.

2. The idle control is different on the r34 so you would need to run a r33 AAC set-up an wire it up accordingly (haven't hit this hurdle yet, but I will when I'm closer to the build). Don't expect it to be hard to figure it out though.

3. The neo de head apparently has much smaller ports (just going off photos I've seen, but I'm going to double check this when my engine comes out), so the manifold will be far from "port matched".

4. The shorter runner style of the greddy will reduce down low torque and is more suited to FI, unless you're planning on really reving the old girl hard. I dont know about yours but the only thing that the neo DE has going for it is the lower down low torque compared to the non-neo DE, and this would work against that. Hopefully it would add to abit more top end as mind just dies in the ass after 6k rpm but I don't see it helping that much as I think the stock cams hold it back aswell.

It does look a lot cleaner though, and the extra time you would save from spark plug changes would pay for itself :thumbsup:

thanks for the reply mate.

i also heard the neo rb25 has smaller ports too.. maybe bring out the grinder and give it a go? haha

my car is a de+t so its got better low end response already.

definitely worth looking into with abit of fiddling round, could work!

has anyone got a greddy style plenum that i can borrow for a day so i can see how much work is needed to fit?

will leave something of value so u know im not gonna run away with it lol

Depending on how long you can afford to have your car off the road, take the inlet manifold off and get a stock r33 inlet gasket and pop it on. You'll be able to see the difference in the ports from that.

From the pictures I've seen it looks more intensive then a die ginder job haha. I still can't believe its smaller than the turbo counterpart, the de and det heads on the r33's are exactly the same port wise I dont know why they would make them different on the 34's.

Failed? ill admit the na r34 is a slug but wat can you expect from a na 2.5L? In terms of intake runners or even exhaust manifold design nissan know what they are doing...

Yes and no. The neo head was designed to be more "emissions" friendly, so certain areas are leaning towards that and power/performance is sacrificed. Overall its not a bad engine, but I wouldnt say its much better than the r33 engine. If the ports are indeed as small as I've seen in the photos when compared to the DET head, then that would make it a big fail in my book.

  • 3 years later...

Massive thread Necro but.. I am working on putting an R34 RB25de + T into an R32. I have a high mount T67 and just realised (ouch big fail) that due to the de throttle setup there is no clearance. If I went with a turbo manifold setup I would be fine. My thought was to split the plenum bottom half from the top, hoping (probably wishful thinking), that the runners expand?

Even if they don't maybe it would be possible to port the bottom half to match a turbo top half and a damn sight cheaper than porting the head.

Damn you nissan and your smaller runners on the RB25de NEO! :(

Edited by Sarumatix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...