Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know the earlier models (R32 & R33) GTS can use the greddy plenum but on the R34 GT is completely different to the GTT.

has anyone ever attempted to fit a greddy plenum to a R34 GT RB25DE head?

if so, was it a direct fit & if not, what problems did you encounter?

as a r34 owner, you would all agree that the head design is a pain in the ass to do spark plug changes and overall makes the engine bay look so messy.

any help much appreciated :(

pics/links would be very helpful.

i've searched and only return results for R34 GTT & R33/32.

Trent from status, perhaps you may be able to shed some light on this.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294132-greddy-plenum-on-a-r34-rb25de-head/
Share on other sites

The head stud pattern is the same so it would bolt up just like a r33 rb25.

The only problem i see is that:

1. The manifold is designed for side feed injectors and you would need to run a fuel rail to suit top feed as above, easily fixed with same spacers.

2. The idle control is different on the r34 so you would need to run a r33 AAC set-up an wire it up accordingly (haven't hit this hurdle yet, but I will when I'm closer to the build). Don't expect it to be hard to figure it out though.

3. The neo de head apparently has much smaller ports (just going off photos I've seen, but I'm going to double check this when my engine comes out), so the manifold will be far from "port matched".

4. The shorter runner style of the greddy will reduce down low torque and is more suited to FI, unless you're planning on really reving the old girl hard. I dont know about yours but the only thing that the neo DE has going for it is the lower down low torque compared to the non-neo DE, and this would work against that. Hopefully it would add to abit more top end as mind just dies in the ass after 6k rpm but I don't see it helping that much as I think the stock cams hold it back aswell.

It does look a lot cleaner though, and the extra time you would save from spark plug changes would pay for itself :thumbsup:

thanks for the reply mate.

i also heard the neo rb25 has smaller ports too.. maybe bring out the grinder and give it a go? haha

my car is a de+t so its got better low end response already.

definitely worth looking into with abit of fiddling round, could work!

has anyone got a greddy style plenum that i can borrow for a day so i can see how much work is needed to fit?

will leave something of value so u know im not gonna run away with it lol

Depending on how long you can afford to have your car off the road, take the inlet manifold off and get a stock r33 inlet gasket and pop it on. You'll be able to see the difference in the ports from that.

From the pictures I've seen it looks more intensive then a die ginder job haha. I still can't believe its smaller than the turbo counterpart, the de and det heads on the r33's are exactly the same port wise I dont know why they would make them different on the 34's.

Failed? ill admit the na r34 is a slug but wat can you expect from a na 2.5L? In terms of intake runners or even exhaust manifold design nissan know what they are doing...

Yes and no. The neo head was designed to be more "emissions" friendly, so certain areas are leaning towards that and power/performance is sacrificed. Overall its not a bad engine, but I wouldnt say its much better than the r33 engine. If the ports are indeed as small as I've seen in the photos when compared to the DET head, then that would make it a big fail in my book.

  • 3 years later...

Massive thread Necro but.. I am working on putting an R34 RB25de + T into an R32. I have a high mount T67 and just realised (ouch big fail) that due to the de throttle setup there is no clearance. If I went with a turbo manifold setup I would be fine. My thought was to split the plenum bottom half from the top, hoping (probably wishful thinking), that the runners expand?

Even if they don't maybe it would be possible to port the bottom half to match a turbo top half and a damn sight cheaper than porting the head.

Damn you nissan and your smaller runners on the RB25de NEO! :(

Edited by Sarumatix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...