Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

EK9s don't exist in Australia, and when they do they're closer to $30K. $20K-ish would probably get you an EP3 though...

What are Aussie delivered Integra Type Rs fetching these days?

yeeh i guy i used to work with had an ek9 - i think he paid 32k for it

As a BTiR owner myself i would recommend one to anyone IF (and this is a big IF) you have the time and skills (or $$) to maintain it like you would an R32 GTR, they are old and finicky but oh so much fun.

The Gearboxes are a weak point If you treat it like shit, but in saying that they got the rep as people would put the heaviest brass button clutch in after the stock one slipped and then wonder why the box shattered. Treat it right and it will be good to you

What i would recommend for the price range is this.

http://forum.gtiroz.net/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10543

Just look at the mod list and add it up. Its a bargin!

Have a look around on the for sale page on the site, there are some pretty good stockish ones going for less than $10k.

Cheers

Edited by poppin13b
How about EK9? It is very rare rite??

I thought you wanted torque in "not so high RPM"? Why would you opt for something that has a Honda B series engine if low-end torque was one of your requirements?

My shortlist are: Colt Ralliart, 206 GTI 180, Polo Gti or a Corolla Tivo..

I like a car with lots of torque in not so high rpm, a great "dancer" and still be able for a daily commuter with high quality and cheap parts

The last 2 requirements rule out any French car, so you can drop the 206 as well.

FYI - RenaultSport Clio is better than 206 GTi if you do decide to get a physically small money pit.

If you're willing to go grey import then, as the ferrous cook says, if you can find an EP3 Type-R then your search is pretty much over. Personally I'd still get a Polo GTi as a "reliable, not to be modded" daily driver if I could afford either (due to local manufacturer support with a not-assholeish dealer network, VW's legendary reliability, and the extra low-end torque from the turbo strapped to a decently-sized engine, and the ECU reflash option) but otherwise it'd be hard to beat the EP3R based on your listed requirements.

Choosing between an EP3R and a RalliArt Colt, on the other hand, would be a harder choice.

I thought you wanted torque in "not so high RPM"? Why would you opt for something that has a Honda B series engine if low-end torque was one of your requirements?

The last 2 requirements rule out any French car, so you can drop the 206 as well.

FYI - RenaultSport Clio is better than 206 GTi if you do decide to get a physically small money pit.

If you're willing to go grey import then, as the ferrous cook says, if you can find an EP3 Type-R then your search is pretty much over. Personally I'd still get a Polo GTi as a "reliable, not to be modded" daily driver if I could afford either (due to local manufacturer support with a not-assholeish dealer network, VW's legendary reliability, and the extra low-end torque from the turbo strapped to a decently-sized engine, and the ECU reflash option) but otherwise it'd be hard to beat the EP3R based on your listed requirements.

Choosing between an EP3R and a RalliArt Colt, on the other hand, would be a harder choice.

Oh.. Is EP3 and EK9 engine have the same charateristics?

Have you driven the Colt?

Or do you have other ideas mate?

I saw this ad: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DAMAGED-HONDA-CIVIC...=item3ca6f2072e

And I see I can buy this with my price range..

Do you guys know how much to get the car fixed?

I think if I don't need to spend too much on fixing the car, maybe I want to buy this type R, and I will fix the damage step by step..

What do you think guys?

Oh.. Is EP3 and EK9 engine have the same charateristics?

The EK VTEC Civics have a B16 if I remember correctly. 1.6L, with the old-school VTEC cutover. The EP3 has a 2.0L K20A, the same engine as the locally delivered DC5 Integra Type-R.

The K20A still revs cleanly all the way to its very high limit, but it also has a lot of bottom end torque. When VTEC kicks in its not as noticable from the seat of the pants, but you do pick up a nice induction note.

In terms of civility, the K series is miles ahead of the B series (as you'd expect from a generation-newer engine). The power curve is almost dead straight and it'll happily pootle along from 2000RPM. Which, for a daily, is important.

The latter is more "fun" since there's a noticable kick in power when the big cam comes on, you have to wring its neck to get it to move, and it feels more raw. But from a technical standpoint the K series is better, and around town the B series will not be as comfortable to drive.

There's a reason why Honda boys are shoehorning the K series into everything they can make it fit into, and why Rover-engined Elise owners are opting for that motor rather than the Toyota engine Lotus uses in the current Elises if they look at replacing their boat anchors.

In terms of the chassis, the EP3 is meant to be a gem (better than the FN that Honda Australia is currently selling). The EK is pretty long in the tooth. British reviewers found the EP3R to be the best hot hatch available in its day in a region where the hot hatch is the only affordable sports car available.

Have you driven the Colt?

Not yet but quite a few friends have them. I've ridden in one with a few mods (not much is available off the shelf for the car, powertrain-wise). The chassis isn't bad, but I just don't like the idea of a 1.5L engine (turbo or not). The Recaro seats are really, really, nice though.

He gave it a hit for me, and if you want to talk about straight line oomph it has nothing on a Polo GTi with the ECU reflashed.

The EK VTEC Civics have a B16 if I remember correctly. 1.6L, with the old-school VTEC cutover. The EP3 has a 2.0L K20A, the same engine as the locally delivered DC5 Integra Type-R.

The K20A still revs cleanly all the way to its very high limit, but it also has a lot of bottom end torque. When VTEC kicks in its not as noticable from the seat of the pants, but you do pick up a nice induction note.

In terms of civility, the K series is miles ahead of the B series (as you'd expect from a generation-newer engine). The power curve is almost dead straight and it'll happily pootle along from 2000RPM. Which, for a daily, is important.

The latter is more "fun" since there's a noticable kick in power when the big cam comes on, you have to wring its neck to get it to move, and it feels more raw. But from a technical standpoint the K series is better, and around town the B series will not be as comfortable to drive.

There's a reason why Honda boys are shoehorning the K series into everything they can make it fit into, and why Rover-engined Elise owners are opting for that motor rather than the Toyota engine Lotus uses in the current Elises if they look at replacing their boat anchors.

In terms of the chassis, the EP3 is meant to be a gem (better than the FN that Honda Australia is currently selling). The EK is pretty long in the tooth. British reviewers found the EP3R to be the best hot hatch available in its day in a region where the hot hatch is the only affordable sports car available.

Not yet but quite a few friends have them. I've ridden in one with a few mods (not much is available off the shelf for the car, powertrain-wise). The chassis isn't bad, but I just don't like the idea of a 1.5L engine (turbo or not). The Recaro seats are really, really, nice though.

He gave it a hit for me, and if you want to talk about straight line oomph it has nothing on a Polo GTi with the ECU reflashed.

Wow.. You give me alot, man..

But, I don't know why, I prefer Japanese car, I just think that Japanese makes the best sport cars and European for the luxury cars..

I I just think that Japanese makes the best sport cars

Really?

When I think the "best sports cars" the names that first come into my head are Ferrari, Porsche, Lotus and, to a lesser extent, BMW.

FYI the EP3 Type-R Civic, while a Honda, is actually designed and manufactured in the UK.

Yeah, maybe European makes the best exotic cars..

The cars I've listed are only "exotic" because they're thin on the ground in Australia. In Europe, the corollary is true. They hardly get any Japanese cars over there, so for them an RX-7 or GT-R would be an "exotic".

BMW 3 Series are dimes a dozen the world over, and in Germany they use 5 Series as taxis and cop cars. If a BMW is "exotic" because its rare for us, then so is a Holden because its rare for them.

Half my car enthusiast colleagues in the UK drive Porsches, Lotuses, BMWs or the like. And they're not exactly upper management.

But, the Japanese makes the best sport cars..

I'm still voting for Europe on this one. I'd still class the Elise as a sports car, and the only Japanese roadster on the market (the MX-5) doesn't even compare. Nor does the MX-5 do that well against the Boxster or Z4. I'd take any of those Euros over an S2000 as well.

I'd take a BMW 335i over a V36 370GT, let alone a M3. I'd take a VW Scirocco over the FN2 Civic Type-R hatch. Europe gets a buttload of hot hatches based on the Golf platform, and the Seat Cupra RR is a lot cheaper than the Golf GTi it shares most of its parts with. I don't think I could buy a Mazda3 MPS over them. As I said earlier, personal preference has me choosing a Polo GTi over a RalliArt Colt.

Japan might make sports cars we can afford more easily, but overall it's hard to say they're "better" from a technical perspective.

Asan example, Evo can keep up with a Lambo..

If you're referring to Clarkson's video on TG, then you should be fully aware that Clarkson loves to ham things up on a regular basis.

Secondly, that Evo wasn't the stock vehicle that came out of Japan. It is tuned by Mitsubishi UK, and its service intervals got halved. It's a tuner car in how it behaves, and how finicky it is to maintain. I wouldn't consider it an OEM vehicle, aside from the warranty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...