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hey guys ive tried again at setting up a turbosmart electric manual boost controller with yet again another huge result of NOTHING...im starting to get annoyed because of how simple it all seems and yet getting no where..ive seen this exact setup done on another R33 and it worked...so im starting to think my wastegate is rooted or something...have a look and let me know whats going on please =] Cheers! (car is boosting over 10psi no matter what, i want it back to somewhere between 5>8 as it doesnt seem to appreciate 10..)

post-62346-1257506374_thumb.jpg

Edited by XxNinjaxX
hey guys ive tried again at setting up a turbosmart electric manual boost controller with yet again another huge result of NOTHING...im starting to get annoyed because of how simple it all seems and yet getting no where..ive seen this exact setup done on another R33 and it worked...so im starting to think my wastegate is rooted or something...have a look and let me know whats going on please =] Cheers! (car is boosting over 10psi no matter what, i want it back to somewhere between 5>8 as it doesnt seem to appreciate 10..)

post-62346-1257506374_thumb.jpg

Hmmm, hard to tell dude! From the pic, and from my knowledge after having installed my boost controller just today. It looks like ur boost controller isn't going to do anything because of the way u have it wired. The vac/boost line is all linked. U are not controlling the boost at all like that. Does ur boost controller have 1, 2 or 3 hole for a vac tube?

ok guys this is a pic of another engine ive seen hooked up in this set up and im asuming it works? its exactly what ive done except im using an electric manual verson of the turbosmart range tapped into the line thats spose to be there for the charcoal canister. im going to Kyp performance today to see what they can do, ideally i think all i need to do is drill and tap into my cooler piping and fit a boost/vacumme nipple and run it off that as the stock turbo doesnt come with a boost pressure nipple at the outlet side like most aftermarket turbo's do which would be ideal

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For that boost controller you have it hooked up "correctly"

Although, I HIGHLY recommend taking your pressure source from an intercooler pipe, or off the manifold direct.

Secondly, if when hooked up direct from intercooler pipe to actuator you're getting over 10PSi, adding a boost controller won't bring it down... Boost controllers only increase the pressure.

Where are you located mate?

I reckon by T'ing into the carbon canister you have effectively added another boost tap to your actuator line which is actually a large chamber.. try a dedicated pressure source from the manifold or cooler piping.

The setup you are trying to emulate has no carbon canister, he is just using the old line to the CC as his pressure source.

Had a look at it today and from what ive seen its hooked up ok exept the vacuum point, also he's running a pod and FMIC. I told him that these things will increase boost and 10 psi is possibly going to be the lowest he's gunna get. I may be wrong? i think he' going to try change the vacuum point to see if that helps to

Had a look at it today and from what ive seen its hooked up ok exept the vacuum point, also he's running a pod and FMIC. I told him that these things will increase boost and 10 psi is possibly going to be the lowest he's gunna get. I may be wrong? i think he' going to try change the vacuum point to see if that helps to

He can go as low as 3PSi if he's got the stock actuator.

It's all about where you measure boost, and where you take the actuator pressure source from.

Both from the same place, what the guage reads the actuator sees, 3PSi will get it open and holding steady.

I run mine from the manifold, as I want my pressure control to be in reference to what I'm putting down it's throat...

He can go as low as 3PSi if he's got the stock actuator.

It's all about where you measure boost, and where you take the actuator pressure source from.

Both from the same place, what the guage reads the actuator sees, 3PSi will get it open and holding steady.

I run mine from the manifold, as I want my pressure control to be in reference to what I'm putting down it's throat...

Thats a dumb idea - you really want your reference from just before the throttle body in most applications.

Thats a dumb idea - you really want your reference from just before the throttle body in most applications.

It's not a dumb idea.

Alot of big HP cars do it... It gives one huge advantage too... When you shift, the wastegate is sucked hard shut making ALL exhaust gasses head out the wastegate... :rofl:

I run my car with no BOV, so if I were to shift, the waste gate is held open, just as is on all cars that run their pressure source from the IC piping as they either run no BOV (And wastegate still sees pressure) or they run a BOV and as such, there is a delay in having the BOV vent, hence there is always a minor amount of pressure... At the least, they see vacuum...

As for claiming it's a dumb idea, you give no reasoning for it...

It's not a dumb idea.

Alot of big HP cars do it... It gives one huge advantage too... When you shift, the wastegate is sucked hard shut making ALL exhaust gasses head out the wastegate... :rofl:

I run my car with no BOV, so if I were to shift, the waste gate is held open, just as is on all cars that run their pressure source from the IC piping as they either run no BOV (And wastegate still sees pressure) or they run a BOV and as such, there is a delay in having the BOV vent, hence there is always a minor amount of pressure... At the least, they see vacuum...

As for claiming it's a dumb idea, you give no reasoning for it...

I see what you saying but - I think you would find alot more response with a proper BOV and the boost reference where I said.

It also becomes a vacuum leak when using a bleed style boost controller.

Edited by rob82

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