Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Got a problem with my car atm that is doing my head in. It's a Series 2 R33 GTS-T with the only mods being a full exhaust.

Basically what is happening is when the car has reached its normal operating temp, (about half way on the temp gauge) when i stop at a set of lights for example it will idle fine for a minute but then the revs will drop from say 7-800 down to around 500 so the car feels like it is going to die, and then pick back up again.

Also when it is doing this if i put my foot on the throttle just slightly the car will almost stall out before coming back more aggressively to try and stay alive.

The car has been lacking its usual power lately and seems to be hesitant at certain stages throughout the rev range.

I have done a full wet and dry compression test, the dry coming up as 155 - 157 across all 6 and the wet as 175-176 across all the cylinders so i know thats all good.

Im considering taking it to someone with a cable to plug in and see if any error codes are coming up.

Would be a great help if anyone could suggest anything.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295480-warm-idle-breakdown/
Share on other sites

BOV leak and not fully closed? Throttle position Sensor up the poo or loose and its moving. There only little screws holding it.

Just a few thoughts. Not sure if it will help you.

BOV leak and not fully closed? Throttle position Sensor up the poo or loose and its moving. There only little screws holding it.

Just a few thoughts. Not sure if it will help you.

Hey mate, yeh i will double check that tonight. Only thing thats doing my head in is that it only happens when its warm.

:D Doobs, that fixed the warm idle problem! car is sooo much smoother especially when i come on and off the throttle.

Still having problems getting full power i think i need to check on my afm though i only cleaned it a few weeks ago... Car seems hesitant to pull hard through the rev range :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...