Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi People

A newbie here that has just picked up a R34 GT-T.

I'm looking at up grading the exhaust system. There are a few to choose from but I'm leaning towards the Blitz Nur Spec cat back system.

Just wondering what you guys think and if you have any other tips or suggestions.

By the way I'm not a great fan of the N1 style systems with the angle mounted mufflers - I'm not keen on the look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29653-blitz-nur-spec-for-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

Hiya mate, I've got a Black GTT with a Blitz Nur Spec exhaust

r34back.jpg

It sounds great, it's very loud but can get a bit "droney" on long motorway drives. However, let her rip and the sound is awesome. The only thing louder was a 1000bhp HKS Drag exhaust (only 1 very small silencer). I've also noticed that it's got a really small exit when compared to other makes?

Looks like my apexi n1 with not so much angle. I found my exhaust damn loud, it has no resonator at all its all straight through to the muffler. The good thing about these sorts of exhaust is they maximise exhaust gas flow which equates to healthy power gains initially and later on with more mods the drawback is the noise :D I'm glad I dont have a screamer pipe on my external wastegate to go along with the loud exhaust or I'd be cop bait :)

I fitted a 105mm hks titanium drag zorst to mine and cracked 125db when i got epa'd recently.i would suggest going with one thats street legal otherwise you gonna get good at changing your zorst all the time and getting db tests.And angle tip looks MAD!.burnt the shit out of my spoiler tho

Thanks for the input guys.

For a start I didn't realise that the nur spec sat on an angle - I was told that it sat straight (bloody salesman).

A question on db's - is the Nur Spec system with the silencer in place street legal.

What other systems are people running and how do they balance between noise polution and max power gains.

Again thanks for your thoughts.

umm there is a NUR Spec V, NUR Spec R and NUR Spec RR.

Spec R & RR

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/ex.system/.../nur-series.htm

Spec V

http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/ex.system/...nur-v/nur-v.htm

Silencer won't do you good if you're going to the epa, they won't accept silencers unless they are welded in place :eek:

Exhaust sounds on an RB25DET

NUR Spec

I think the fujitsubo exhausts sound nice but i think theyre abit more expensive than the other brands.

Fujitsubo Super R

Fujitsubo Regalis R

Regalis R

HKS

HIPER

Super Dragger

HKS Hiper

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...