Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats the story with the 34 conversion?

theres one in adelaide thats got no reo bar, and fiber glass front 1/4 panels... cant insure em aparently :S...?

sell the 260.... keep the leather seats....has sunroofs and xenavi... already gota tow bar for a jet ski... very nice :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296677-r34d-stagea/#findComment-4942124
Share on other sites

whats the story with the 34 conversion?

theres one in adelaide thats got no reo bar, and fiber glass front 1/4 panels... cant insure em aparently :S...?

If done correctly, there is no reason not have a reo bar. It should have. There again, it was built by Viva

If you use the R34 GTR genuine reo bar ($1000-1200 new approx) it pretty much bolts directly onto the stagea chassis rails and has plenty of room for a FMIC.

My car is fully insured and listed with the front end conversion. The only f/glass in the front end is the front guards. Techinally they are not adr approved, but it is possible.

MIKE, unless the R34 support is used, you have to trim the stagea support to fit the headlights

Hey Mitch, don't sell it too soon, hopefully catch up with you before xmas for a few photo's

I have decided my car is no good now for a tow vehicle as well, can not see me leaving it at the boat ramp in the dark hours. Just ordered a new Kluger for the job. Have a 3 week road trip in Jan with jayco camper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296677-r34d-stagea/#findComment-4942462
Share on other sites

My car is fully insured and listed with the front end conversion. The only f/glass in the front end is the front guards. Techinally they are not adr approved, but it is possible.

X2- insurance company are aware of all the mods done to the front end. All genuine R34 GTR parts used- however as with Darrin the front guards are not metal, but are excellent quality! Car has no dramas getting roadworthy

My understanding is the rad support has been modified slightly for headlights. See the previous owners build thread here- you will see this was a top job using quality parts:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...io-t195041.html

Edited by EvoMitchy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296677-r34d-stagea/#findComment-4943819
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...