Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just woundering...Has anyone got a OS Giken Triple plate? What are they like to drive around? when i pulled the clutch apart i noticed that none of the clutch plates had springs. But do the 3 plates compensate for having no springs?

Am i going to have driveline problems? Is it a ON/OFF clutch?

Any comments welcome.

Cheers,

Trev

I ran an OS triple plate in my GTR for quite sometime and it was fine.

It was one of the most pleasent clutches I've driven considering it was a triple plate and my car is driven on quite a regular basis in peak hour traffic.

Unlike other clutches I have used, the OS isn't an on/off clutch and there is some slip there if you want it.

I think you will find that most triple plates are unsprung as it would only mean that more space is required to fit the springs.

Just a note, you won't really need a triple plate in a RWD until you are making over 400rwkw so stick with a single or twin for drivability sake.

Thanks Leewah,

By the way was the clutch noisy? In terms of the clutchs rattleing around?

Also im not sure if you will be able to ansaw this, but: I have bought the Triple plate of a R32 GTR (RB26), and the clutch will be fitted to a RB30 Crank. (It doesnt quite fit, needs about .50MM machined of the crank were the pressure plate fits.) Anyhow, i am using a stock RB25 tranny. Now because the clutch has a double diaphragm, i think it would be pretty heavy on the fork inside the box, is it nessacery to strengthen this? also will i have to machine anything on the inside of the box (e.g snout?) or should the clutch fit straight on?

Cheers,

Trev

Surprisingly, the clutch wasn't that noisy considering it was a triple plate.

All multiplate clutches will make the rattling noise when the clutch is in but it was a noise I could live with. People will tell you that the car is making funny noises but it's just a given that they'll make noise when the plates are rubbing against each other.

As for the fitting of the clutch, you'll just have to muck around with it. You seem to have bits from all types of Skylines but most parts are interchangable if you can be stuffed machining them. Sorry but I have no idea about the stress on the forks. Someone else on these forums maybe able to answer this question.

I fitted a twin plate to my GTT(the HPI-34T one) had to use the os giken converter to make it push not pull type.best mod i have done to my car so far.for me its easy to drive.does slip a little so its ok in traffic.car will chirp 4th if ya slam it fast enough.there is a little rattle when clutch in.i got a giken fork ball etc ith mine so i dont know if standard will be strong enough.

I have got HKS Triple plate in my gts-t and must say they are quite a bit of overkill for a gts-t unless you're doing a lot of drag racing. Also the triple plates tend to have a lot smaller amount of pedal movement between being disengaged->slipping->fully engaged. Gearshifts are a hell of a lot quicker with the triple plate though. I think the HKS kit cam with fork and thrust bearing and rose bearing. I would definately recommend upgrading the clutch fork though if it didn't come with one as the triple plate is a lot heavier than the standard clutch.

Jamie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...